The walking's a mite less wild than the waves that pound Galicia's desolate granite Costa del Morte, so named for the countless shipwrecked sailors drowned offshore. As you thread westward from the onetime whaling port of Malpica, windswept headlands and promontories are separated by rias—gentler, more sheltered estuaries. Enjoy rarely visited beaches and, in the small ports, sample the freshest of fish and seafood, washed down with chilled Ribeiro wine from small ceramic bowls. West of Cabo de Finisterre, there's nothing but sea until New England. Allow five to seven days, or do it in half the time, and just as enjoyably, by mountain bike. Accommodations en route are thin, so pack a lightweight tent.