Source:
OutsideOnline.com
Take it to the Top: Ten Great Alpine Adventures
Three Miles High: Climbing Mexico's Volcanoes
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Make no mistake, these are "real" mountains, with steep icy slopes, the potential for bad weather, and enough altitude to severely affect climbers. Many people have been killed on them. On the other hand, they require only basic technical skills—the use of crampons, ice axe, and simple rope techniques—that most any fit and adept person can learn quickly. As such, they are an ideal first taste of big-time mountaineering and springboard to more difficult peaks like Aconcagua or McKinley.
Each mountain takes just one day to climb—a very long and exhausting day, to be sure, starting well before dawn—from base huts accessible by motor vehicle. (In most cases, however, it's a good idea to spend a day or two acclimatizing to the altitude at the huts.) Vertical gain from the huts is approximately 5,000 feet
Unfortunately, the Mexican trio has been a duo for the last seven years. Popo has been erupting off and on since 1995, and the mountain is currently closed. (In 1996, five climbers who defied the ban were killed by an explosion at the summit.) Volcanoes are notoriously fickle, however; the eruptions could subside at any time.
Practically Speaking
Only veteran expert climbers should attempt any of these mountains without a guide. Independent climbers will need their own vehicle to get to the base huts. (Orizaba, the most remote of the three, requires a high-clearance four-wheel drive vehicle to reach the hut.) There is no local climbing community near the mountains, so renting equipment is difficult or impossible. (You'll need double-plastic mountaineering boots, crampons, an ice axe, and high-quality outdoor winter clothing. And bring along some Diamox for altitude symptoms.)
It makes far more sense to go with one of several American climbing companies that run organized trips. On the current two-mountain schedule, expeditions typically take from 7-12 days and cost $125-$150 a day, including transportation, meals, and guides. Trips typically depart from Mexico City, and include some accommodation there. Most companies require no previous mountaineering experience, although there are some exceptions when more difficult routes are followed.
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