The Gemütlichkeit Glow

Pull on your lederhosen and go looking for kicks in Mayrhofen, Austria's Tyrolean treasure

By Eric Hansen

Till the cows come home: The misty Tyrolean Valley (Corel)

FORTY MILES SOUTHEAST OF INNSBRUCK, in southwestern Austria, Mayrhofen is what so many American mountain towns aspire to be. The authentic Tyrolean chalets (dating back 400 years), 3,600 year-round working-class residents (including cowherds in honest-to-god lederhosen), and absurdly picturesque location—in the nook of the spiny Ziller and Tuxer mountain ranges—exude what locals proudly call gemütlichkeit: a warm, friendly, welcoming vibe. But once you leave Mayrhofen's quaint cobblestone streets—and the German tourists drinking Zillertal Bier on sunny café patios—the atmosphere changes dramatically. Atop the 10,000-foot mountains, storms move in and out quickly, adding a touch of excitement even to hiking. In the Zimmer Valley, the buzz comes from outings on the wild, glacier-fed Ziller and Zemm rivers. What you find in Mayrhofen is every Euro traveler's dream: a charming Alpine village where gemütlichkeit meets adrenaline rush.
WHERE TO PLAY >> Mayrhofen's most popular activities are whitewater rafting and peak-to-peak hiking; local guides can also take you paragliding, horseback riding, mountain biking, climbing, and glacier skiing. Pick up a trekking map at Tourismusverband Mayrhofen (011-43-5285-67600, www.mayrhofen.com), the tourism office in the Europahaus on Dursterstrasse, then choose from hundreds of miles of trails, many of which eventually return to bus stops in the valley. For a warm-up outing (and awesome views of the glaciated spires in the heart of the Alps), hike the Steinerkogl trail, a steep two-mile climb gaining 3,500 feet from downtown to the shoulder of Brandberg Mountain. Serious thrill seekers can sign on for a guided canyoneering tour and spend an afternoon climbing waterfalls and rappelling into gorges. One-stop shopping for all activities starts with Action Club Zillertal (011-43-5285-62977, www.action-club-zillertal.com).

APRÉS–ADVENTURE >> You can always slug flaming schnapps with young Austrians, Swedes, Aussies, and the odd Canadian at the downtown Scotland Yard Pub (011-43-5285-62339, www.scotlandyard.at), but the best summer nightlife is found in restaurants, not bars. At Brugger Stube (011-43-5285-63793), you're likely to share chateaubriand and a beer with a 70-year-old farmer from nearby Hollenzen. Don't miss the Wirtshaus zum Griena (011-43-5285-62778, www.griena.at), a 440-year-old tavern with soot-stained timbers and fewer than 20 tables, where local specialties like wilderer sandel (braised venison served with bread dumplings) are perfect for end-of-the-day refueling.
WHERE TO STAY >> The English-speaking Hubers—third-generation residents of Mayrhofen who also lead tandem paragliding flights—built Apparthotel Veronika (doubles, $135; 011-43-5285-633470, www.apparthotel.com) as a traditional chalet in 1985, and they've recently added a lavish, modern spa. Of the ten apartments, all with kitchens, 700-square-foot Suite Zillertal has the best views, overlooking the Zillertal Valley.
HOW TO GET THERE >> Fly to Innsbruck on Austrian Airlines (800-843-0002, www.austrianair.com) or Lufthansa (800-645-3880, www.lufthansa.com), then catch one of the hourly trains east to Jenbach ($5, 30 minutes), where you'll transfer to a southbound Mayrhofen train ($6, one hour). Train seats can easily be booked at the station; contact Austrian Federal Railways (www.oebb.at) for more information.