Train travel through Europe may be easy, it may offer a nice glimpse at the countryside as you race across borders and zip from city to city. But the difference between cycling through France's wine valleybreathing fresh air, interacting with friendly locals, cranking the pedals to a satisfying end at a country inn or castle retreatand letting a country's heartland blur by in a rush is as stark as the difference between sipping vinho verde in Portugal or dining on Loire Valley's haute cuisine and choking down yet another months-old meal from the train's passing food cart.
For those who enjoy the rewards of a little hard work, we offer a list of the most fabulous routes to cycle through Europe.
Loire Valley,
France
The ultimate trip for sybarites
who don't mind getting sweaty. Some places you
choose for the scenery or the culture or the challenge; this one you
choose
because you want to be ridiculously pampered and live like the rich
and the
royal who've been coming here for centuries. You stay in a different
four-star
riverside chateau every night. The cuisine is oh, so haute. And did we
mention
that you're in ther heart of one of France's great winemaking regions?
(By the
way, the cycling's not bad either.)
Hardanger Mountains,
Norway
The famed Oslo-Bergen railway
winds through some of Europe's most rugged, beautiful
terrain. The dirt service road alongside the tracksno private
cars allowedis
fat-tire touring Nirvana. Do the whole route in a couple of weeks, or
take the
train to the top of the pass and coast down to Bergen in three or four
days.
D.H. Lawrence called Tuscany "the
perfect center of man's universe." Here are
art, architecture, history, the divine pleasure of eating and
drinkingall
set among rolling hills of perfect human scale. (The scale is good for
cycling,
too; though occasionally steep, Tuscan hills are never very long.)
After a week
here, you'll curse your bad luck of not being born Italian.
County Kerry,
Ireland
Ireland has been called Western
Europe's only third-world country, but the upside
for cyclists is a dearth of car and truck traffic and a feeling of
remoteness
from modern ways. Back roads, velvety mountains, fishing villages,
pubsand
everyone speaks English. There's no place in Europe a cyclist can feel
more
welcomed by the local populace.
Minho,
Portugal
Virtually untouched by foreign
tourists, the Minho region is Portugal's leading
wine-growing area, and the world's last stronghold of small
family-owned vineyards.
Farmers still use oxcarts to take their grapes to local wine co-ops,
which make
tart bubbly vinho verde for the village taverns where you'll stop for
lunch.
David Noland is a full-time
professional freelance writer specializing in adventure travel, sports,
and science. His book, Travels Along the Edge, published in 1997
by Vintage Books, is now in its fourth printing.