Back in the day, this once-decadent desert oasis was every celebrity's favorite playground. And now, after two decades in the doldrums, Palm Springs has rediscovered its mojo and reinvented itself as the very definition of retro-cool. On weekends the beautiful people come to indulge in pampering spas, hike the palm-shaded canyons, ride on the Palm Springs Aerial Tram, and listen to Frank Sinatra while sipping martinis by the kidney-shaped pool. When only the best will do, L.A.'s hottest hide out at the Movie Colony (1.80.953.5700, www.moviecolonyhotel.com), an embodiment of Palm Springs' Modernist chic. The spa at Le Parker Meridien is on every Hollywood Palm Pilot for mud wrap indulgence in neo-Greco surrounds. Dinner at Las Casuelas Terraza (760.325.2794, www.lascasualas.com) is a must: we recommend the signature camarones Florencio. And no discerning cognoscenti leaves town without a taste of Rat Pack-tinged hedonism at Melvyn's at Ingleside Inn.