Chances are you have heard the whispers about Whitewater Ski Resort outside Nelson, British Columbia, and just how epic the skiing can be—deep powder, few crowds, plenty of steeps. And then you get there, and looking up at three lifts, measly base lodge, and smattering of runs with barely more vertical than an Montana grain elevator, and you think it's all one big joke.

Ah, the perils of a first impression. If Whitewater's "anti-marketing team" had its way, you'd do a donut in the parking lot and go tell all your friends just how paltry the place really is. Unfortunately for them, we know better. Look beyond the runs that trickle down either side of the Whitewater Valley to the towering 7,867-foot Ymir Peak that frames the resort and you'll see those blues and blacks are actually just the landing strips for the big B.C. terrain above. That's right: The 45-degree bowls, sweeping ridgelines, and tight chutes that cascade off the head and shoulders of the valley are all part of the game. And then there's the 40 feet of annual snowfall to deal with.

True, with just 12 percent of its 76 runs dedicated to beginners, Whitewater doesn't have a huge offering for those who prefer to spend the day riding lifts and carving mellow groomers. But for upper-intermediate to advanced skiers who can blast through glades, rip steep ribs, and hike short pitches to wide-open turf, Whitewater's skiable terrain more than doubles. To really milk the area for all it's worth, avalanche gear and savvy skiing are an absolute must. This is big-league terrain that attracts film companies and some of the country's most daring riders.

But you needn't be a pro to have a

Chances are you have heard the whispers about Whitewater Ski Resort outside Nelson, British Columbia, and just how epic the skiing can be—deep powder, few crowds, plenty of steeps. And then you get there, and looking up at three lifts, measly base lodge, and smattering of runs with barely more vertical than an Montana grain elevator, and you think it's all one big joke.

Ah, the perils of a first impression. If Whitewater's "anti-marketing team" had its way, you'd do a donut in the parking lot and go tell all your friends just how paltry the place really is. Unfortunately for them, we know better. Look beyond the runs that trickle down either side of the Whitewater Valley to the towering 7,867-foot Ymir Peak that frames the resort and you'll see those blues and blacks are actually just the landing strips for the big B.C. terrain above. That's right: The 45-degree bowls, sweeping ridgelines, and tight chutes that cascade off the head and shoulders of the valley are all part of the game. And then there's the 40 feet of annual snowfall to deal with.

True, with just 12 percent of its 76 runs dedicated to beginners, Whitewater doesn't have a huge offering for those who prefer to spend the day riding lifts and carving mellow groomers. But for upper-intermediate to advanced skiers who can blast through glades, rip steep ribs, and hike short pitches to wide-open turf, Whitewater's skiable terrain more than doubles. To really milk the area for all it's worth, avalanche gear and savvy skiing are an absolute must. This is big-league terrain that attracts film companies and some of the country's most daring riders.

But you needn't be a pro to have a good time. Whitewater sits in the V of a valley with the Silver King Chair running up one side and the Summit Chair pulling up the other. You'll find most of the greens and easier terrain off the Silver King side. For quad-searing steeps, head toward Summit.

Get your legs under you on the easier side and cruise up to Silver King's 6,300-foot-high station. Beginners can take the meandering Silver King Skiway, a green, with several options. Drop on the green directly below the lift and meander your way back to the base, or choose either skier's left or right and find a maze of blue and black run, with Jackpot being a good option for opening it up. Concentrator Trees, a gladed black, will help you find your rhythm for bigger tree runs waiting on deck.

Unless you haven't skied in years, it's probably best to just leap right over to the big boy side and warm up with a few runs off the Summit Chair instead. From the 6,700-foot-high station you'll find blues like Gold Pan and bumps off Blast, the in-bounds test piece. Black tree runs like Dynamite hold good lines for days after storms, while Terra Ratta, a double black right under the chair, holds a few cliffs.

There isn't much in the way of amenities here—at least at first glance. The cafeteria at the Whitewater base may look rustic, but the Fresh Tracks Café serves food unlike any ski cafeteria you know: Think scrumptious curry bowls, wild salmon with wasabi sesame mayo, and gourmet pastrami sandwiches. The grub's so good, in fact, that former chef Shelley Adams compiled a best-selling cookbook of her ski lodge recipes (the lamb burger rocks).

Most of the apres action happens down in Nelson, about 14 miles away and the only place to stay unless you have an RV and plan to camp in the parking lot. The , located right in the thick of it on Baker Street, is a 19-room boutique hotel with flat screens, free Wi-Fi, and offers that combine lift passes and lodging (from $69). Backpackers and bargain seekers flock to the Dancing Bear Inn, an upscale "hostel" overflowing with charm. Some rooms are private, all are simple but comfortable, and the downstairs library has loads of information on skiing the backcountry that makes the Nelson area so legendary (about $25 dorm, $50 private room).

As for beer, nearly everyone ends up swilling Pacifico or, better yet, Nelson Brewing Company ales at Mike's Place Pub inside the Hume Hotel on Vernon Street. Kick back, watch a ski video, and massage those quads. Tomorrow is bound to be another big day, and that's no joke.