Steeps might be Kirkwood's forté, but there is also a fair amount of beginner terrain from the Snowkirk and Bunny lifts. The Bunny Lift is a particularly good spot for first-timers; it's out of the main flow of skier traffic so you won't be intimidated by crowds of faster skiers whizzing through.

The best intermediate terrain, especially in the morning, is from the east-facing Sunrise Lift, although if Kirkwood skiing has a drawback, it's the shortage of long, cruising runs. As for expert runs, a world unfolds. Take the Wall or Cornice chair to the summit ridge, and then traverse or hike until you find a line that suits your fancy. If hucking is your thing, Kirkwood is loaded with big outcroppings for massive air.

The concept of a self-contained resort is ideal for families on a week's vacation. Set up base camp in your condo or lodge room, enroll the kids in ski school, and the hassles of having to drive to the slopes each morning evaporate. Kirkwood is almost never crowded—another plus—but the emphasis on advanced terrain isn't particularly family-friendly.