If nearby Arapahoe Basin is a streamlined alpine experience with nominal infrastructure and very little to get in the way of you and the mountain, Keystone is Colorado skiing on steroids—only sans the haute vibe typical to Aspen and Vail. Its statistic pedigree tells only part of the trail, but it's the best place to start. Those 3,148 skiable acres are scattered across three mountains and five above-treeline bowls. Experts typically flock to the upper reaches of 11,660-foot North Peak or 11,980-foot Outback mountains and yo-yo the sun-softened routes before the larger crowds catch up. Then, they can either hike into the backcountry via Outback Express—or drop $5 and take the snow cat shuttle to the top of the North and South bowls, where a 1.25-mile hike reaches over toward Erickson Bowl. After 1:30, access to the backcountry bowls close, so expect the runs of Santiago and Ruby express lifts to pick up (if the off-piste powder hounds still have some legs left, that is). Tree-lovers should hit the glade runs off Outback, while bump-runners should target North Peak. Intermediates, meanwhile can choose from runs like Frenchman and Wild Irishman off Montezuma Express, River Run Gondola, and the Summit Express Lift, the same region of the resort that hosts the majority of the long green runs. Hucksters and groms, meanwhile, should hop the Peru Express to lap through the terrain park—one of the largest, most expansive of its kind in the state. Keystone also offers night skiing on Dercum Mountain, with over ten blue and green runs, daily during the peak season until 9 o’clock. In short, this resort is vast enough to dedicate at least three days of exploration before you hone in on your personal “secret stash.” Or, as one mountain guide put it, "I've been here for 12 years...and I'm still here."
And while the skiing is indeed spectacular, that’s only half the draw. A recent $700 million master plan has generated a pedestrian-friendly village at the base of River Run Gondola. The resort also offers cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating on a natural lake, and a variety of mid-mountain dining options. For an indulgent midday meal, consider Alpenglow Stube atop North Peak, where you swap your ski boats for plush slippers and food that will likely spell demise to any post-lunch ski plans.
Lodging options are vast and varied, with a free color-coded shuttle network linking the different villages together. Those looking for easy mountain access should target accommodation in River Run Village and Mountain House, while families may want to branch out to places like Lakeside Village (with the afore-mentioned ice-skating rink). Après options abound as well, including insanely curative indulgences like Aboriginal-inspired massage treatment at the world-class Keystone Lodge and Spa. One caveat: if your plans dictate punctuality and you’re relying on public transport, plan some extra time into your schedule as the bus shuttles run in loops that can carve through the entire sprawl of Keystone proper.
Daily lift tickets at Keystone also provide free access to Arapahoe Basin and Breckenridge resorts; consider a multi-day ticket package and explore.
Keystone also offers daylong guided snowcat skiing for around $200. Geared toward expert skiers comfortable with skiing in deep powder, this outing accesses backcountry bowls like Independence, Bergman, and Erickson and includes powder demo ski rentals, a backcountry primer, use of an avalanche transceiver, and a gourmet lunch in a backcountry yurt; easily one of the best-value snowcat operations in North America. Contact Keystone Adventure Tours for details.
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$60 or less;