Few ski areas guarantee powder, but they aren't Anthony Lakes. Located in eastern Oregon, 19 miles west of the town of North Powder at the northern tip of the Blue Mountain's Elkhorn Ridge, Anthony Lakes is a small, "purists" playground. Sure, some slopes are groomed, but locals know that they can head to the chutes, steeps, and glades for powder pig heaven. Anthony Lakes has the highest base elevation in Oregon or Washington (7,100 feet), with snow that's as light and effervescent as fine champagne. Plan to hit the slopes on a Thursday, as the area is generally closed Monday through Wednesday. Lift tickets are half-priced on Thursday, and, with all the early-week snow piled up, you can count on making fresh tracks all day. It's hard to imagine a more remote, serene setting. To the south loom four magnificent granite peaks, Lees Peak (8,626 feet), The Lakes Look Out (8,522 feet), Angell Peak (8,646 feet), and Gunsight (8,342 feet). Stretched out to the north are the winding Grande Ronde River Valley and the endless basin and ranges of the John Day Wilderness.

Although the Lakes terrain is sufficient to please the Glen Plake in all of us (he's made the pilgrimage up the surrounding peaks to claim virgin chutes of chest-deep powder), it's a haven for beginners. The Wonder Carpet removes all potential lift anxiety. It gently whisks novices up about 100 feet of gently sloped terrain for a mellow slide back down. The next step is the Handletow that ascends a slightly challenging, longer section of mountain. A sentry of densely packed lodgepole pine guards the Handletow's slope from above, so there's no danger of speed racers swooping down to intimidate beginners.

Few ski areas guarantee powder, but they aren't Anthony Lakes. Located in eastern Oregon, 19 miles west of the town of North Powder at the northern tip of the Blue Mountain's Elkhorn Ridge, Anthony Lakes is a small, "purists" playground. Sure, some slopes are groomed, but locals know that they can head to the chutes, steeps, and glades for powder pig heaven. Anthony Lakes has the highest base elevation in Oregon or Washington (7,100 feet), with snow that's as light and effervescent as fine champagne. Plan to hit the slopes on a Thursday, as the area is generally closed Monday through Wednesday. Lift tickets are half-priced on Thursday, and, with all the early-week snow piled up, you can count on making fresh tracks all day. It's hard to imagine a more remote, serene setting. To the south loom four magnificent granite peaks, Lees Peak (8,626 feet), The Lakes Look Out (8,522 feet), Angell Peak (8,646 feet), and Gunsight (8,342 feet). Stretched out to the north are the winding Grande Ronde River Valley and the endless basin and ranges of the John Day Wilderness.

Although the Lakes terrain is sufficient to please the Glen Plake in all of us (he's made the pilgrimage up the surrounding peaks to claim virgin chutes of chest-deep powder), it's a haven for beginners. The Wonder Carpet removes all potential lift anxiety. It gently whisks novices up about 100 feet of gently sloped terrain for a mellow slide back down. The next step is the Handletow that ascends a slightly challenging, longer section of mountain. A sentry of densely packed lodgepole pine guards the Handletow's slope from above, so there's no danger of speed racers swooping down to intimidate beginners. Best of all, when you rent skiing or boarding equipment, your 90-minute lesson is free.

Masters of the snowplow are ready to head up the three-person Rock Garden Chair. There are three great beginner runs off the top, but the best place to start is Broadway, a wide swath of a groomed trail that traces the eastern perimeter of the resort. At 1.5 miles—the longest run on the mountain, Broadway resembles the world's longest roller coaster, with sweeping dips, flats, and manageable drops that'll exhilarate boarders and skiers of all abilities. Broadway is groomed, but expect to find plenty of powder on both sides. This is where terrain park features are typically built, with rails set up on the sides of the run.

On the other side of the mountain, intermediate skiers will gravitate toward Trouble Creek, a run that dives through the pine glades west of the lift. When Trouble Creek is groomed, it's as fast and smooth as a waterslide, with sufficient pitch to see the bottom of the hill between your tips. The runs just under and to the far west of the lift are "fat boy" territory. Experts will love the short, steep, powder-filled drops. While many of the black-diamond runs are fairly short and intense, a great combo with plenty of top-to-bottom thrills is K2 to Schuss Alley. Anthony Lakes mountain is strewn with huge, granite boulders, and they are the predominate feature of Schuss Alley. When covered with snow, the rocks turn into Mother Nature's finest mogul field.

For a real backcountry adventure, consider taking the snowcat tour that's based out of the lodge. There's a minimum of eight on the cat, a maximum of 12. If you book the whole trip, you have your choice of days, otherwise, it runs during regular operating hours. The terrain in Crawfish Basin is magnificent, with up to 2,000 acres of steeps, glades, and bowls. Vertical drop per run is about 1,500 feet. Generally, you get in ten runs a day. Cost is around $200 per person, and you must be a "fall line" skier, intermediate to advanced and ready for all conditions.

Expect a western attitude at Anthony Lakes. Tailgaters in the parking lot are the norm, and leave your Bogner jacket at home in favor of Carhart. The flavor is definitely cowboy, with a lot of down-home fun replacing the traditional posturing of this resort's ritzier cousins. The fare at the lodges is also Western, with homemade chili, cornbread, and mountain burgers being local favorites. Fans of Paint Your Wagon, parts of which were filmed at the mountain, should check out the Starbottle Saloon, named after the shady hotel in the movie. The featured beer is Tumble Off Pale Ale, aptly named the "best beer you've never heard of." It's named after one of the area's black-diamond runs, is made locally, and is the Gold Medal winner of the Great American Beer Festival in Denver and the North American Beer Association. The beer is brewed at the Barley Brown's Brew Pub in nearby Baker City—the mountain bar of choice for the apres-ski crowd. It's Baker County's only microbrewery, with live music and mouthwatering chicken fettuccine alfredo. The bar's very family friendly, with first-class highchairs for the tykes.

The closest lodging and food is in North Powder. Just 19 miles from Anthony Lakes, the North Powder Hotel costs only about $40 a night. There's a café with good, hearty food; a small grocery store; and a gas station. A real treat is staying in one of Baker County's historic hotels. The Geiser Grand in Baker City is gorgeous, with more than 100 spectacular chandeliers and a stained-glass ceiling. The food in the dining room is terrific, and they have room service—a nice break after a long day on the slopes. They also have a fitness center, Jacuzzi suites, and ski-for-free packages.

Where: About 140 miles northwest of Boise, Idaho, or 250 miles east of Bend, Oregon, Anthony Lakes is 19 miles west of the North Powder Exit 285, off of Interstate 84. The road is well maintained year-round. The North Powder exit is 45 miles south of LaGrande and 35 miles from Baker City.