When word spread that Papoose Creek Lodge in southwestern Montana was shutting down in late 2007, the eco-lodging community gasped that the first of the country's luxury green resorts was closing its doors. But the mourning was short-lived when it was announced that the nearby private residence of Papoose Creek's founders, Roger and Cindy Lang, was being remodeled and renovated into a lush boutique lodge.
Opened in May 2008, The Lodge at Sun Ranch is the lofty reincarnation of
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When word spread that Papoose Creek Lodge in southwestern Montana was shutting down in late 2007, the eco-lodging community gasped that the first of the country's luxury green resorts was closing its doors. But the mourning was short-lived when it was announced that the nearby private residence of Papoose Creek's founders, Roger and Cindy Lang, was being remodeled and renovated into a lush boutique lodge.
Opened in May 2008, The Lodge at Sun Ranch is the lofty reincarnation of Papoose Creek and it shares its predecessor's luxurious feel and standards of excellence, catering to a maximum of 16 people who are looked after by at least twice as many staff. The 10,000-square-foot log cabin-style lodge is elegant without being stuffy. It includes six uniquely designed rooms, some with their own fireplaces, soaking tubs, and private decks from which to contemplate the sage-covered foothills. The aptly-named Great Room has soaring wood-beamed ceilings, a blazing stone fireplace, comfy couches, and cozy reading nooks. There are also two freestanding homesteader cabins at Sun Ranch that were salvaged, painstakingly restored, and outfitted with wide chairs, Jacuzzi baths, and downy beds perfect for sinking into after a long day out on the range.
Sun Ranch spans 26,000 stunning acres of Montana's Madison Valley, which is bound by the Gravelly and Madison mountain ranges and the Lee Metcalf Wilderness Area. From creeks to mountain peaks, from hot springs to towering pine forests, the ranch is a "mini Yellowstone" where wolves, eagles, grizzlies, moose, and elk roam en route to their seasonal stomping grounds. (The area is actually part of the Yellowstone ecosystemthe national park lies less than an hour southand is considered one of the most important wildlife corridors in the Rocky Mountain region. As of the end of 2007, 95 percent of Sun Ranch was under conservation easements held by The Nature Conservancy.) It's also a working cattle ranch.
Because of its location at the center of such ecological bounty, the ranch makes a great base camp for a wide variety of excursions. Hikers can set out on their own along the popular eight-mile-long Papoose Creek Trail through flowery meadows and up rock canyons, or head out with a guide for a more strenuous summit bid. Riders can embark from the ranch's private stables on horseback up winding mountain canyons to the Finger Lakes to cast a line for rainbow or brown trout. A lower-impact day might include paddling a canoe on Crater Lake or a fly-fishing outing or float trip down tranquil Madison River. All trips are tailored to skill level (beginner horseback riders might saddle up on Blaze, one of the ranch's slow but steady rides) and are led by experts trained in local ecology and terrain.
At the end of the day, arrange for a private in-room massage or sip a Bordeaux from the lodge's extensive wine cellar while enjoying sweeping views of twinkling aspens and snow-covered mountaintops from the patio. Guests can anticipate a five-star meal in chef Tyler Sloan's "sustainable western bistro" tradition, which consists of small-herd, grass-fed beef, naturally raised pork, lamb, and poultry, and organic, locally grown fruit and vegetables. (Sloan will also give private cooking lessons upon request.) Favorite menu items include Colorado rack of lamb with olive and rosemary potato cake and minted carrots, which could only be followed by chocolate and caramel tarts drizzled with cocoa cream.
Heather Hansen is co-author of Disappearing Destinations: 37 Places in Peril and What Can Be Done to Help Save Them and has written for publications including Men's Journal, Outside, and Mother Jones.
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