Some of the signature sounds at Run of the River aren't so surprising—the crackling of wood in the fireplace, the chatter of chickadees outside your window. And then there's this: the clack-clack-clack of an old-fashioned typewriter, as yet another guest feels inspired to document his romantic musings.

Typewriters are a standard amenity at this "inn and refuge" in Washington's Icicle Valley, a testament to the owners' understanding that this gorgeous retreat tends to

Some of the signature sounds at Run of the River aren't so surprising—the crackling of wood in the fireplace, the chatter of chickadees outside your window. And then there's this: the clack-clack-clack of an old-fashioned typewriter, as yet another guest feels inspired to document his romantic musings.

Typewriters are a standard amenity at this "inn and refuge" in Washington's Icicle Valley, a testament to the owners' understanding that this gorgeous retreat tends to bring out the inner poet in their guests. Inside the woodsy suites, you'll also find walking sticks, backpacks, birding books, and binoculars, all of which are handy for long meanders in the surrounding 100-acre wildlife refuge.

Less than three hours from Seattle, Run of the River is an ideal base for all sorts of outdoor pursuits. Hikers can walk the "locals-only" loop trail that starts at the inn, or explore the creek-side paths and ridge trails of the nearby Icicle Valley. Cyclists can pedal the house mountain bikes (including a tandem) on valley backroads and Wenatchee National Forest roads. Maps and recommendations are yours for the asking.

Ornithologists, you needn't look far to check evening grosbeaks off your bird list—the birdfeeder on your deck is a favorite hangout. Venture outdoors to find great blue herons hunched in the trees, turkey vultures soaring overhead, and Canada geese nibbling on seeds along the river. Deer and coyotes make frequent appearances; bear and elk sightings are less common.

In the winter, strap on some snowshoes (available to guests for free) and hit the trails, or take advantage of a ski package that includes passes for local cross-country at Leavenworth Winter Sports Club, or downhill at or Mission Ridge.

Returning to the inn after a long, active day feels like coming home. The open, airy suites challenge the notion of the hotel room as just a place to shower and sleep: comfy, hand-hewn furniture; cathedral ceilings and lots of windows; bathrooms with heated slate floors; a river-rock fireplace. You could be excused for spending your entire stay indoors. The Ravenwood Lodge, a private, secluded cabin for two that overlooks the refuge, is even harder to leave.

That said, the family-style breakfasts here are incentive enough to vacate your room for at least a little while. Fresh, local fruit features prominently—think tall, rich smoothies and baked goods like a pear-huckleberry crumble, straight from the oven. It's hearty fuel for an action-packed (or action-free) day.

Kimberly Lisagor is a freelance journalist who covers travel and the environment from her home base in San Luis Obispo, California. She is the co-author of the book and has written for publications including Outside, National Geographic Adventure, and Men's Journal.