The Four Seasons Hualalai is an oasis in the midst of paradise, a place designed to enhance its surroundings rather than compete with them. With panoramic views of dormant Mauna Kea on Hawaii's Big Island, the welcoming lobby, accented with rattan furnishings, is framed inside by mahogany rafters and a cool slate floor. From here, lushly landscaped walkways fringed by more tropical vegetation lead to detached bungalow-style lodging arranged in crescents (Sea Shell, Palm Grove, Beach Tree,

The Four Seasons Hualalai is an oasis in the midst of paradise, a place designed to enhance its surroundings rather than compete with them. With panoramic views of dormant Mauna Kea on Hawaii's Big Island, the welcoming lobby, accented with rattan furnishings, is framed inside by mahogany rafters and a cool slate floor. From here, lushly landscaped walkways fringed by more tropical vegetation lead to detached bungalow-style lodging arranged in crescents (Sea Shell, Palm Grove, Beach Tree, and King's Pond), each with its own swimming pond or pool. By night, the gardens evoke romance, lit by hundreds of torches.

Of course, this being an island paradise, the place is all about water. The five pools are exquisite, including an infinity pool that's delicately perched between land and sea. King's Pond boasts an enclosed saltwater/freshwater swimming lagoon carved out of natural lava, great for snorkeling as it's stocked with more than 3,500 fish, including spotted eagle rays. (Complimentary snorkeling gear is yours for the taking.) There is also a children's pool, leaving couples to escape the inevitable din and running around. Although only a thin ribbon of sand fronts the lava-rock shore, Four Seasons guests who live for sand beneath their toes now have access to the lovely strands next door at the Kona Village Resort. Back at Hualalai, an exceptional open-air, state-of-the-art health club and spa boasts an Olympic-style, heated lap pool.

As for the guestrooms (each with an ocean view), expect intimacy and quiet luxury. Hardwood, slate, and stone appointments are softened by luxurious linens and ocean breezes; special amenities like lava-rock outdoor showers abound. The result? Clean, cool elegance. And the Hualalai's bungalows are now even better than ever, as some have been expanded to include a sitting area.

Your dining options here include several tempting venues. Pahu i'a features unparalleled views and over-the-top cuisine. The more casual Beach Tree Bar & Grill serves alfresco lunch and dinner. From Friday to Sunday, the latter transforms itself into an outdoor trattoria, featuring a Tuscan bar and a classic Italian dinner menu. On Saturdays, the Beach Tree boasts a barbecue buffet on the beach. The lunchtime beachside and poolside service is Four Seasons-simple; offerings include ahi sashimi, sandwiches, vegetarian dishes, grilled fish, and diverse salads, all of it prepared with a degree of flair commensurate with the peerless brand. The Hualalai Grille, located above the golf clubhouse and under the stewardship of uber-restaurateur Alan Wong, offers creative new approaches to familiar regional dishes and uses locally grown and raised ingredients.

To enhance the spirit and feed your mind, the on-site Ka'upulehu Cultural Center teaches Hawaiian values, heritage, and practices. Educational exhibits, as well as daily classes taught by kupuna (Hawaiian elders), include flower or feather lei making, Hawaiian language lessons, Hawaiian throw-net making, ukulele lessons, shell bracelet making, hula lessons, and ipu (gourd) making.

has been writing about the best places to stay in North America since the day after graduating college in 1984. Since then she has written over 35 guidebooks and for countless websites and print publications. She is also the editorial director of a forthcoming website on the best places to stay and the travel acquisitions editor for Countryman Press.