In 1956, the philanthropist Laurance Rockefeller donated 5,000 acres of St. John, more than two-thirds of the island, to form the Virgin Islands National Park. He had come to St. John on a sailing trip only four years prior. Enraptured by its beauty, he started buying up large swaths of land to ensure that it would never be developed. An additional 170 acres would be set aside to create Caneel Bay, the Caribbean's first eco-resort long before "eco" was an adjective. The low-lying buildings blend harmoniously into the lush landscape, nestled alongside seven private beaches.

Today, Caneel Bay represents the tranquil alternative to over-the-top resorts like Atlantis that seem compelled to entertain guests from the moment they arrive. There's no aquarium, theme-park swimming pools with webs of slides, cabaret theater, or casino. Just one of the most glorious stretches of beach in the Caribbean and the lure of natural attractions like snorkeling, scuba diving, hiking, sea

In 1956, the philanthropist Laurance Rockefeller donated 5,000 acres of St. John, more than two-thirds of the island, to form the Virgin Islands National Park. He had come to St. John on a sailing trip only four years prior. Enraptured by its beauty, he started buying up large swaths of land to ensure that it would never be developed. An additional 170 acres would be set aside to create Caneel Bay, the Caribbean's first eco-resort long before "eco" was an adjective. The low-lying buildings blend harmoniously into the lush landscape, nestled alongside seven private beaches.

Today, Caneel Bay represents the tranquil alternative to over-the-top resorts like Atlantis that seem compelled to entertain guests from the moment they arrive. There's no aquarium, theme-park swimming pools with webs of slides, cabaret theater, or casino. Just one of the most glorious stretches of beach in the Caribbean and the lure of natural attractions like snorkeling, scuba diving, hiking, sea kayaking, and deep-sea fishing. Or simply sift sand through your toes, listen to palms sway in the breeze, and sink into a good thick novel. For chronically over-scheduled families, that may be just the tonic you all need.

In the U.S. Virgin Islands, only a few miles east of St. Thomas, St. John has virtually nothing in common with its overdeveloped neighbor. The natural landscape is an oasis in the Caribbean for the active traveler. Naturalists from Caneel Bay lead guests into the park on trails that weave through the arid terrain past some 500 species of plants like the desert-loving Turks Head cactus. On the coast, white-sand beaches lead to coral-covered bays (Trunk and Leinster are two of the best) where snorkelers and scuba divers spend hours mesmerized by the neon-colored fish. There's sailing and sea kayaking into hidden coves, even a Tom Fazio-designed golf course on nearby St. Thomas that's available to guests. The hotel will also arrange for a boat to pick you up and take you deep-sea fishing for the day. Hook a marlin, sailfish, or large yellowfin tuna and you'll have a story to tell when you return home.

Back on terra firma, you can brush up on your serve at one of the 11 tennis courts. Better yet, invest in your well-being at the mind-body-spirit Self Centre. Nature walks, meditation, yoga, stargazing, and holistic treatments for body and face are a mere sampling of the offerings. Then grab dinner at one of four restaurants, like the Turtle House Estate, perched high atop a bluff, or Equator, set in the ruins of a sugar mill from the 1700s. Surrounded by water, you can rest assured that the day's catch was swimming just a few hours ago.

The 166 guestrooms, replete with local tapestries and handcrafted furniture, have no television or telephones. Folks are content whiling away the hours at Caneel Bay with little or no distraction from the modern world. And that's exactly what Laurance Rockefeller envisioned over half a century ago.