Wasatch-Cache National Forest

Logan Canyon Climbs

The ratings used in this guide are based on the standard Yosemite Decimal System ratings. However, one must remember that many of the newer climbs have seen few ascents and the ratings are usually the opinion of a few people. Ratings may change in the future based on a consensus of climbers' opinions. Climbs may change in rating due to the nature of the rock. Holds may appear or disappear with each climbing season due to the instability of the rock. For more detailed route descriptions and directions, you can purchase Logan Canyon Climbing guide books from local sporting goods stores.

Second Practice Wall: A designated top-roping area. Bolt anchors are available across the top and slings are needed for belays. Eleven climbs have been named ranging from 5.4 to 5.10d.

Fucoidal Quartzite: Over 30 climbs are available, a mixture of naturally protected crack climbs and bolted face climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.12.

China Wall: Most of this wall is dosed to rappelling climbing. There are a number of bolted sport climbs available for climbing ranging 5.10 to 5.14.

385/Chimney Crag: A sport climbing area with 14 climbs over 5.10a. Some of Logan's best routes and rock are located here.

Cruisin: 2nd Practice Wall, Top-roped (rake trail to right to top to 4th set of bolts -2). Climb left to right angling crack as an undercling/lieback.

Free Solo: 2nd Practice Wall, Top-roped (rake trail to right to top to 4th set of bolts - 2). Climb up blocky holds to angling face with right facing dihedral.
Preston's pinnacle - East Face: Preston Valley Pinnacle, Natural Protection Glint, Scramble up hillside 600' to base, climb face or crack, move left to surmount roof.

Mighty Mouse: Fucoidal Quartzite West Tower, Natural Protection Glint. Climb face and then white chalky looking lieback crack to finish. Walk off.
Tennis Ball: Fucoidal Quartzite, B, (#2), Scramble up hillside right of East Tower to short (3O') black face climb. Lower off chains.

Kentucky Fried Penguin: Fried Wall, Bolted Climb (#6). Climb white chalk face next to road. Lower off chains.

RATING: 5.10
Bonnie (10a): Monkey Wrench Buttress, Bolted Climb (#4). Face climb using large pockets. Lower off chains.
Cushions (10b): Fucoidal Quartzite, Natural Protection & Bolts, (#3). Scramble right of the Fast Tower to large amphitheater, to arete on right side. Climb thin cracks and face. Descend by rapping the Black Knight.
Gills Grace (10c-d): Fucoidal Quartzite East Tower, Natural Protection Glint. Climb obvious left facing dihedral to a large roof. Jam and lieback to good ledge on top.

RATING: 5.11
Conventional Arms (11a): 385/Chimney Crag, Bolted Climb (#8). Climb begins on south facing side of large white buttress in bottom of chimney. Climb up and left to ledge on arete and follow arete up. Lower off chains.
Begging For Bolts (1 la-b): Fucoidal Quartzite Fast Tower, Bolted Climb (#12). 15' left of Gills Grace, climb bolted face through 2 overhanging sections. Lower off chains or walk off left.
All Shook Up (11a-b): Graceland, Bolted Climb (#9). Climb the vertical face on the left of the first two bolts before moving straight up on small ledges. A very sustained climb with a few good rests. You can rappel off using one rope.
Limestone Cowboy (11d): Fucoidal Quartzite Middle Tower, Bolted Climb (#11). Face climb just left of the Middle Tower proper. Lower off chains.

RATING: 5.12
Nuclear Fingers (11d/12a): 385/Chimney Crag. Bolted Climb (#9), Overhanging face climb begins on right side of white west facing buttress. Climb to ledge, move left and up face. Lower off chains.
Pale Face (12d): 385/Chimney Crag, Bolted Climb (#11). Climb begins on south facing side of large white buttress in bottom of chimney (left of Nuclear Fingers). Climb face. Lower off chains.
Sportfest (12d): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#10). A connect the bolts traverse climb. Climb horizontally using solution pockets.
Vulcan Crawl (13): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#6). Follow path along river to right edge of overhang, climb goes underneath roof and then pulls roof using one and two finger pockets. Lower off chains.
Big Brawl (13c/d): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#9). Another overhanging traverse that has some great pockets before pulling the roof. The start is the second set of bolts from the left side of the roof.
Tweek (14a): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#7). Climb begins at back of the roof. Upside down traverse using small finger pockets and then pull roof going straight up to anchors to rappel off.

Published: 10 Oct 2009 | Last Updated: 9 Jun 2010
Details mentioned in this article were accurate at the time of publication


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