When John Wesley Powell first ran the Grand Canyon in 1869, few realized the rapids that caused him such consternation would make it one of the world's top whitewater runs a scant century later. Rapids such as Crystal and Lava Falls are topped only by the canyon's beauty as the Colorado River carves its way through time. To do the whole 280 miles takes anywhere from 10 to 23 days, depending on whether or not you have motor support. And if you go with an outfitter, you're guaranteed gourmet fare that is a far cry from the salted pork and flour rations of Powell's rafting days.