Drop Zone: Preparing to put in on the Upper Elaho (courtesy, Squamish Chamber of Commerce)
Runs down the ultra-technical lines of tight creeks throughout the United States are just practice for what's in store for the boater who heads to Squamish, British Columbia. The Sea to Sky Highway that runs from Vancouver north toward Squamish and Whistler crosses innumerable creeks. And these licks of cool glacial runoff from the Pemberton Icefield are all about waterfalls.
Squamish sneaks under the radar in the broad shadow of Whistler, its blockbuster neighbor 36 miles north. But drive 40 miles from Vancouver and pull off at Squamish before hitting the Whistler scene. You'll be in for a treat. And while the town is noted for its excellent windsurfing (Squamish means "mother of the winds" in the local First Nations dialect), its location at the confluence of Pacific Ocean inlets and glacial-rubbed mountains means water sports of the paddling kind rule, from sea kayaking to canoeing to whitewater kayaking.
Practically right in town, the Mamquam and Skookum falls tumble 50 to 60 feet. And here you'll do well to remember the old saw that tributaries have tributaries, so your options are manifold. The Lilloet, the Elaho, the Ryan, and the Clendenning are just a few of the rivers worth running. The elite creek boaters of the world still explore this area, hunting for the most technical lines. Local boater and pro snow-sports huckster Jonaven Moore discovered Tatlow Creek's potential last summer in the big waterfalls around Squamish. Many more challenges await. Playboaters should head elsewhere, though: there just isn't much for you here. But the few places Squamish does have for playboating are some of the most rollicking around. What's more, there's enough water running here to keep your boat out of storage all year long.
Squamish-based Sea to Sky Kayak (604-983-6663, www.squamishkayak.com) runs kayaking courses that include full-day "First Strokes" or "Playboating" sessions for around $100 U.S. And as testament to its paddling-obsessed soul, the town has its own kayak-training facility on the Mamquam River. With your technique dialed and your confidence up, hit the Upper Elaho for some expert kayaking riffs, or paddle on over to the Cheakamus River for something a little less riotous.
