When the Four Seasons took over the management of the former Lodge at Koele (and the Manele Bay Resort, for that matter) in 2006, things started looking up, up, up. Not that they were down, but $50 million in capital improvements and staff retraining has a way of putting the shine back on a platinum band.

Let's be clear, though: Lanai is no Maui. It's a tiny island with only three places to stay and a plantation economy until recently. (Now it's a tourist economy, such as it is.) Folks know everyone by name, and service, although welcoming and humble, doesn't rise to the level of other Four Seasons properties. But, frankly, it shouldn't. This is Lanai; that's why you're here and not at Wailea or Hualalai.

Koele is an upcountry gem. It's more akin to staying in a small plantation-style hotel than anything else in the state. (Or perhaps you're in Montana?) Blending elements of an English countryside manor and rural Lanai, everything about the Lodge is elegantly

When the Four Seasons took over the management of the former Lodge at Koele (and the Manele Bay Resort, for that matter) in 2006, things started looking up, up, up. Not that they were down, but $50 million in capital improvements and staff retraining has a way of putting the shine back on a platinum band.

Let's be clear, though: Lanai is no Maui. It's a tiny island with only three places to stay and a plantation economy until recently. (Now it's a tourist economy, such as it is.) Folks know everyone by name, and service, although welcoming and humble, doesn't rise to the level of other Four Seasons properties. But, frankly, it shouldn't. This is Lanai; that's why you're here and not at Wailea or Hualalai.

Koele is an upcountry gem. It's more akin to staying in a small plantation-style hotel than anything else in the state. (Or perhaps you're in Montana?) Blending elements of an English countryside manor and rural Lanai, everything about the Lodge is elegantly low-key. The Great Hall—with its enormous fireplaces, soaring beamed ceilings, colorful Thai carpets, and leather seating arrangements—can still guests for hours on end, whether it's for afternoon tea or a board game.

It's another world upcountry. Nights are chilly; horses gather in pastures across the street and Cook Island pines (not palm trees) line the driveway. The 21 acres contain manicured gardens, walking paths, and an Orchid House. Many guestrooms have private lanais and stone fireplaces. All have been recently renovated and freshened.

Signing privileges and frequent shuttle service between the Lodge and the Four Seasons' "other" property, the oceanside Manele Bay, allow you to feel like you're getting the best of both worlds. Good thing, since they are like yin and yang. For many, it's hard to choose between the Lodge and Manele Bay. For others, it's one or the other. But it's never a flip of the coin. These days it's heads you win, tails you win.