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The Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela
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| Bet Maryam church, Lalibela (courtesy, Ethiopia Tourist Board) |
One of the most remarkable, yet little-known, centuries-old architectural feats in the world exists in Lalibela, Ethiopia, in the form of a dozen churches chiseled from pink granite rock. Though it's not uncommon to hear whispers that these churches are the eighth wonder of the world, few outside of Ethiopia have even heard of the town of Lalibela, which for years was known as Roha and was the capital of Zagwe dynasty during the 10th to the mid-13th centuries. Yet this unique place of worship functions today in the Ethiopian Orthodox tradition as it has since workers first tediously crafted the churches between 1180 and 1220 A.D. Now supported by protective scaffolding, and after years of relative inaccessibility to the town, the churches are primed for tourists.
The churches sprung from the vision of King Lalibela. Legends say he traveled to Jerusalem during the 12th century and returned to create a "New Jerusalem" in Roha. While the churches do not resemble the architectural structures in Jerusalem, many were built in honor of biblical figures, while others were dedicated to Ethiopian saints and prominent figures. However, various landmarks around the area are named after sites in and around Israel. Another legend says that Lalibela was the brother of an incumbent king, and he was prophesied to become king himself after a swarm of bees covered him as a child. In a fit of jealously, his brother attempted to poison Lalibela, but instead cast him into deep, three-day sleep. That's when an angel led him to heaven, where he saw a city of rock-hewn churches. At the same time, his brother had a dream that Jesus Christ instructed him to give up the crown to Lalibela, which he did. As for excavating the churches, legends say it took divine intervention. Either that, or an estimated 40,000 freemasons.
Each church has unique architectural styles and most are decorated with colorful religious artwork. They contain replicas of the Holy of Holiesthe Ark of the Covenantthough no one can view these. About half of the churches are underground, surrounded by connecting trenches and courtyards, while others are carved from the sides of vertical rocks or built in existing caves. White-robed pilgrims stroll through the dimly-lit passageways and sit in niches carved into the walls. A priest, typically sporting sunglasses, will greet visitors and pose for photographs while holding the church's cross and a staff. Visitors are required to remove their shoes before entering each church, but a "shoe-guard" will watch over them. Visitors can wake up before dawn to observe ceremonies with candle-wielding pilgrims.
The churches north of the Jordan River (which was named after the river that runs through Israel) are monoliths, excavated from beneath the ground. Bet Medhane Alem is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world, standing almost 38 feet high. This church has empty graves said to represent the biblical patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Bet Maryam is in an adjoining courtyard, and thought to be the first of Lalibela's churches. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and contains carvings of the Lalibela Cross and the Star of David. One veiled pillar is said to have carvings of the story of the beginning and the end of the world, but is off-limits for viewing. Bet Meskel (House of the Cross) and Bet Danaghel are also in this cluster. Bet Danaghel was supposedly built in honor of 50 Christian maiden nuns murdered by the Romans in the 4th century. There is a pool in the courtyard believed to cure infertile women on the Ethiopian Christmas. Bet Golgotha, which is the only church in Lalibela that does not allow women, shares an entrance with Bet Debre Sina. Inside, carvings of saints cover the walls, and it is believed that King Lalibela is buried there. The Selassie Chapel, considered to be the holiest place in Lalibela, is within Bet Golgotha and few visitors are allowed. This whole cluster is surrounded by an outer trench.
The churches south of the Jordan River were mostly carved from vertical rock and existing caves. Bet Gebriel-Rafael, which looks like a fortress with a dry moat, may have been home to Lalibela and is believed to have originally been built 500 years before the others. Legend says Bet Abba Libanos was constructed overnight by King Lalibela's wife, Meskel Kebre, and a group of angels. From there, a 54-yard tunnel leads to Bet Lehem (chapel of Bethlehem), a small cave that may have been used for private prayers by the king. Bet Emmanuel is the only monolith in this cluster and stands 39 feet high. Thought to be the private church of the royal family, it's considered the best-constructed church here. Bet Mercrious, which was converted from an existing cave, may be 1400 years old, and contains a graphic painting of Saint Mercrious killing King Oleonus.
Bet Giyorgis, the one church outside of the two clusters, is an isolated monolith excavated from the ground with a roof in the shape of a Greek cross. Visitors must walk down into the chasm to enter, where skeletons of monks live in the wall cavities. It is the only church that is not yet reinforced by scaffolding, and was likely the last one built.
The surrounding poor, rural town of Lalibela is located 8,628 feet above sea level in the Lasta Mountains in the lower northern territory of Ethiopia. Within the last ten years, road construction has made it possible to visit year-round. As the site's popularity increases, the town will certainly change. But one thing will be constant: These wondrous churches will continue to be the hub of the Ethiopian Orthodox, as they have for eight centuries.
Published: 10 Apr 2007
The details, dates, and prices mentioned in this article were accurate at the time of publication.
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