Of all the historical sites in Ethiopia, there's one that seems out of place, an area one would expect to see in a remote part of Europe, complete with shuttle buses and lines of tourists. In the city of Gonder, there's a field of majestic ruins, a half-dozen castles and other buildings in a walled-off area called Fasil Ghebbi, or the Royal Enclosure. Though an untrained eye may think it's much older, ground was first broken in 1635, and various rulers added to the complex over the years. Why so ancient-looking? An earthquake did severe damage in 1704, and the British bombed the Italian invaders here during World War II. Since then, restoration has taken place over the years, particularly by UNESCO funding.

This fortress-city was the residence of King Fasilides and his successors. Surrounded by a high stone wall that encircles an area of about 19 acres, the enclosure contains palaces, churches, and other buildings. The architectural styles reflect Hindu, Arab, Axumite, and Portuguese influences. The highlight of these structures is the 111-foot-tall Fasilides' Castle, which has three levels, a dining room, prayer room, and a balcony with a view of the surrounding city. Other places of note include an old bathing pool, a sauna (complete with the tools to make steam), raised walkways linking the castles, a banquet hall, a concert hall, a library, and cages that held Abyssinian lions up until the early 1990s. There are also three churches: Elfin Giyorgis, Asasame Kidus Mikael, and Gemjabet Maryam, where King Fasilides is buried.

The city of Gonder was founded by King Fasilidas in 1635 and served as Ethiopia's capital for 250 years. It's located near Simien Mountains National Park, at an altitude of 6,955 feet. While the Italians only occupied Ethiopia between 1936 and 1941, they left their mark by modernizing Gonder.

Though not part of the Royal Enclosure, there are other sites of interest in Gonder within walking distance. Fasilidas's bathing pool often serves as the gathering point for Epiphany Festival, held January 19, but it is under renovation as of 2006. The most famous church in this town is Debre Birhan Selassie (Light of the Trinity), which has colorful paintings on the walls in the Ethiopian tradition. The nightlife in the town's many bars—typically with live music played on traditional Ethiopian instruments—makes for a great counter-balance to the overwhelming European-ness of it all.