Where to Sleep & Dine

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Piazza Castello looking toward the spire of the Mole Antonelliana (Alberto Ramella)
Bleiler on Bardonecchia
Fifty-five miles west of Turin, Bardonecchia is one of Italy's oldest ski resorts and will play a central role in the 2006 Games, both as an Olympic Village site and the venue for snowboarding's halfpipe and cross events. U.S. snowboarder Gretchen Bleiler fondly remembers the town from when she trained there in 2005 to prep for this year's Games.

Where to Sleep:
Located in an ancient building, Aprile (Via delle Orfane 19; +39.011.436.0114; info@aprile.to.it) is a tiny, high-quality B&B in one of Turin's oldest and most lively neighborhoods. The three guest rooms are eco-friendly with handmade wood beds with thick cotton futons, pure organic cotton sheets, and wood floors that use no glues. Located in the heart of the city, museums, monuments, theaters, and night clubs are all within walking distance. Breakfast is served next door in a small café that was once a private church. The building was designed by a renowned architect who was considered the master of baroque art in Turin. Aprile does not take credit cards or travelers checks, so bring cash!

For something a little more upscale, the newly renovated Art Hotel Boston (Via Massena 70; +39.011.500.359) is an eclectic old building overflowing with postmodern and ethnic art in the rooms and lobby. No need to go to a museum when the walls are covered with the work of Boetti, Castellani, Warhol, or Fontana. With 87 rooms in a centrally located, five-story building, you'll find the staff at this four-star hotel attentive yet discrete. There's an excellent breakfast buffet, an internal garden, and onsite parking, while the hotel restaurant, Casa Vicina, offers over 800 different wines.

Where to Dine:
A Turin classic for authentic multi-course Italian food, the Ristorante del Cambio (Piazza Carignano 2; +39.011.546.690) is where Italy's first prime minister, Count Camillo Benso di Cavour, used to dine in the mid-1800s. Set in the lavish surroundings of a palace dating back to 1757 and across the square from the Palazzo Carignano's historic parliamentary chambers, a meal here will cost you around $60 (50 euros). Fish on Via Valerio (+39.011.521.7933) is another high-end spot, including a great selection of ales to accompany its seafood menu.

More typical regional meals will cost around $35, but will fill your belly with multi-courses of pasta, veal dishes, fish, and more. Prepare to enjoy a long, slow lunch or dinner, as Italians believe that one should thoroughly enjoy every hour (and there are usually more than one) spent dining. Top picks for true Turin flavors include 27 Ristorante (Via San Francesco d'Assisi 27; +39.011.562.1003), Alla Buca di San Francesco (Via San Francesco da Paola 27; +39.011.812.5950), and La Vache Qui Rit (Via San Domenico 7 bis; +39.011.436.0305).

On a beer budget? Order Italian pizza, of course. Pizza di Culto da Cristina—translation: Cult Pizza—on Corso Palermo (+ serves a special pizza called alla burrata, using a super-tender buffalo mozzarella with a heart of butter. Da Michele (Piazza Vittorio Veneto; +39.011.888.836) layers on the farinata di pinoli (pine nuts) on its pizzas for an instant mouthful of all that makes Piedmontese cuisine great.

Published: 19 Jan 2006 | Last Updated: 8 Nov 2010
Details mentioned in this article were accurate at the time of publication


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