Into the Belly of the Best

stowe resort
Vermont's Snow-Capped Ceiling: Stowe's Mount Mansfield, the state's largest peak (Gretchen Greenhalgh)
Learn to Board
Stowe has long been one of the East's most respected snowboarding destinations, and a smattering of terrain parks across the Mansfield side of the resort and three half pipes (conditions allowing) keep the grommers well-tuned. But Stowe's Learn to Ride program really put the resort on the map—not to mention throwing countless newbie 'boarders into a life-long obsession. Initiated in consort with Stowe resident Steve Burton of Burton Snowboards, the teaching philosophy puts students in specially designed "learning gear" that greatly accelerates the learning curve, coupled with hands-on instruction that assures first-timers will be linking turns by the end of the first day. All school facilities are located at the base of Spruce Peak.

The resort itself sits on Mountain Road about 15 minutes north of the town of Stowe. This is no West Coast über-resort (at least not until the Spruce Peak expansion opens—see Where to Stay). Consider this modesty a good thing, as there's little to get in the way of the slopes.

The resort is divided into two mountains: The majority of the resort's 48 runs criss-cross 4,393-foot Mount Mansfield, the state's tallest peak. Head to the timber-constructed Mount Mansfield Lodge for rentals and lift tickets, then trudge up a short hill to reach the base, where you can choose from three lifts. The Mountain Triple deposits you roughly midway up Mansfield's western ridge, with access to a slew of groomed blues and a couple meandering green slopes. Moving east from the Mountain Triple, the Lookout Double leapfrogs further up the ridgeline, putting a few of the mountain's more serious black runs within reach, along with a wider expanse of blue cruisers that the ambitious can yo-yo till their legs start quivering. North Slope—the first to open and the last to close, and one of the few with snowmaking—is a delight, especially if the mountain has experienced a dearth of natural snowfall.

To reach the quartet of blacks known as the Front Four—National, Lift Line, Goat, and the mogul minefield of Starr—board the high-speed FourRunner Quad. These runs are largely responsible for Stowe's rep as an expert's mountain, and they deliver. The quad also puts you at the top of a meandering green run known as Toll Road the high entry points to the mountain's blues. The summit makes for a spectacular observation point—Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and Mount Washington are visible on a clear day. The quad also accesses the marked glade runs—Tres Amigos off Hayride, the Lookout Glades, and the glades spreading from Rimrock. And if you can handle a 35-minute uphill trudge, the experienced can reach Mansfield's Chin and drop into glades that typically house the fluffy stuff long after the rest of the mountain has been skied off. From the FourRunner Quad, you can take Rimrock across the valley into the small stretch of slopes fed by the eight-person gondola, including the spectacular blue cruiser Perry Merrill, the bump-and-grind Chin Clip, and Gondolier, a smooth blue that seems to ferry most of the skiers and 'boarders who take the gondola.

Spruce Peak, just a short shuttle ride from Mansfield (either from the base lodge or the gondola base), is prime beginner and intermediate terrain. The mountain has only one black—Whirlaway, via the Big Spruce Double—but there are loads of fun blues like Main Street and Smugglers, along with copious glade skiing between the marked slopes. This is an ideal spot for families, and also houses the resort's Children's Adventure Center.

Use the sun as your guide to skiing Stowe—especially if fate deposits you on the slopes on a sub-zero day. Stick to the western slopes of Mansfield in the morning and slowly migrate east. This approach will keep you in the sunlight and also prime your legs for a midday assault on the Front Four. Then, as the sun drops below the western ridge, migrate over to the gondola and hit the blues and blacks until the shadows encroach—which signals the time for one last run before taking a quick shuttle over to Spruce Peak, whose south-facing slopes stay bathed in golden sunshine until the lifts stop running.

Stowe Resort has one of the best interactive trail maps around: To plot your assault, go to:

Nathan Borchelt is the lead editor for

Published: 3 Mar 2005 | Last Updated: 15 Sep 2010
Details mentioned in this article were accurate at the time of publication


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