9 am
From the restaurant's weather-worn terrace I gaze at the placid waters that surround Little Palm Island. Although only 15 minutes by launch from Little Torch Key in the Florida Keys, I feel as if I've awakened in a faraway place. The waitress delivers a plate of French toast, and the sweet smell snaps me to reality. I spread creamy almond mascarpone and a dab of guava jelly on a piece. The flavors unfold on my tongue as I spot one of the tiny – maybe two feet tall – Key deer munching on sea-grape leaves. Now I understand why all the lower branches on the island's trees are bare.

10 am
I paddle my kayak to an uninhabited neighboring island, navigate the red mangroves around its outer edges and find myself lost in a maze of the trees' tall, arching prop roots. Rather than struggle, I stop and enjoy the silence. Then I hear the call of a heron and see the bird's elegant shape emerge from the camouflage of its wetland habitat.

Noon
The tide is out, and Rolando, the beach attendant, insists on carrying a table out to the sandbar for me, 50 feet from shore. Eating lunch in what seems like the middle of the Atlantic – an expansive blue sky, warm sunshine and a soothing breeze – is over the top.

8 pm
The vibrating sound of a gong signals sunset. I rush to the beach to join the small group of guests and, with a rum runner in hand, watch the flaming ball descend. Dinner is served alfresco on the water's edge, and I delve into crab-stuffed Florida lobster with tomato salsa, Key-lime beurre blanc and chipotle pepper aioli.

10 pm
A delicious mango fragrance permeates my bungalow. The staff has lit aromatic candles, turned down the bed and laid out chocolate truffles. Before turning in, I soak in the swirling waters of a barrel hot tub on the veranda and consider booking a snorkeling trip to nearby Bahia Honda State Park tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and see an endangered hawksbill sea turtle.