The term "cottage country" and Muskoka go hand-in-hand. A playground amidst the rugged landscape of the Canadian Shield, the world's oldest bedrock formed some 2.5 billion years ago, it covers 2,500 square miles from Algonquin Park in the east to Georgian Bay in the west.

Muskoka's sparkling lakes—more than 1,600 of them—mirror the range of colors peppering the landscape. Summer cottagers and tourists abound in the summer, but its true splendor lies in the cavalcade of colors that arrive in autumn. Resorts that began inviting guests in the late 1800s still operate today, as well as local B&B's and larger hotel chains. World-class golf courses designed by the top names in the game have further raised Muskoka's profile as a destination unto itself.

For long walks without the clubs, take to the Trans-Canada Trail, a soon-to-be-completed 1,118-mile recreation corridor that will eventually connect all provinces and territories. The trail runs right through the heart of Muskoka, with locations and distances available through the trail's website (www.tctrail.ca/home.php).

The town of Gravenhurst serves as the gateway to Muskoka. In the summer, step back in time on the (Segwun), North America's oldest operating steamship. In the fall, branch off into neighboring Bala for its famed Cranberry Festival.

Further north, a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees surrounds the charming town of Bracebridge. It sits atop a hill and is Canada's waterfall capital, with 22 in all. Continuing north on Highway 11 you'll arrive in the town of Huntsville. Check out the three-quarter-mile route of the Portage Flyer, an original of the Portage Railway, dating back to 1904. Follow the track along the banks of the Muskoka River to its only stop, with views of Fairy Lake, then turn around and go back. The diesel train runs through Canadian Thanksgiving weekend (held the second Monday in October), and replaces the historic steam locomotive that operates during the peak summer months.

Don't take the word "cottage" too literally; Muskoka is also home to some of Canada's most expensive recreation properties, including "Millionaire's Row," hugging the shores of Lake Muskoka, Lake Joseph, and Lake Rosseau.

How to get there:
From the south, take Highway 400 north through Barrie, then Highway 11 north to Gravenhurst.

Where to stay:
(The Delta Grandview Resort) is located on Fairy Lake in Huntsville. Nature trails and an astronomical observatory are on site, along with a nine-hole executive golf course. Units start at $209 (Canadian). Kids six and under eat free.

Where to eat:
Chef Philip Leach oversees the Marine Dining Room on Bigwin Island, once the largest resort in Ontario . Accessible only by water taxi or complementary ferry at Norway Point (Lake of Bays).

For more casual dining try Muskoka on the Rocks (705.635.1328), offering pub fare, in Huntsville off Highway 60.

Scenic drive:
From Gravenhurst, follow Muskoka Road 169 to Bala and on to Muskoka Road 118. Turn right on MR 118 to Port Carling and on to Bracebridge. Follow Muskoka Road 118 to Muskoka Road 17, right on Muskoka Road 17, past Muskoka Beach and back into Gravenhurst.