Udaipur Travel Guide
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405km (250 miles) SW of Jaipur; 260km (160 miles) S of Jodhpur
You'd have to be a real cynic not to love the "City of Sunrise," often described as the most romantic city in India. Built around four lakes, the placid blue waters reflecting ethereal white palaces and temples beyond which the distant Aravalli Hills shimmer, Udaipur has a real sense of space and peace, and the city is mercifully free of the kind of intense capitalist hucksterism that so marks the Indian street experience. This may have something to do with its proud Hindu history, for the city is not only known for its gracious palaces, temperate climate, and beautiful views, but for maintaining a fierce independence from even the most powerful outside influences. It fought bloody wars to repel Turkish, Afghan, Tartar, and Mongol invaders and rejected allegiances with the Mughals, only to acquiesce in 1818, when the state grudgingly came under British political control.
Capital of the legendary Sisodias of Mewar, believed to be direct descendants of the Sun (an insignia you'll see everywhere), Udaipur was built on the shores of Lake Pichola by Udai Singh II in 1559, who returned here after the third and final sacking of the previous Mewar stronghold, Chittaurgarh. Udai Singh's son, Pratap, kept the Mughal invaders at bay for a further 25 years and is said to have been so disgusted by Man Singh and the Jaipur raja's obsequious relations with the Mughals that, after one historic meeting, he had the ground where Man Singh had walked washed with Ganges water in order to purify it. In keeping with this family tradition of unyielding Mewar pride, Maharana Fateh Singh was also the only Rajput prince who refused to attend the Delhi Durbar held for King George V in 1911, despite the fact that the British had acknowledged the maharana as the head of the princely states of Rajputana.
Today, much of Udaipur, particularly the old part on the shores of Lake Pichhola, where the city's most striking landmarks -- the towering City Palace and floating Lake Palace -- are situated, still feels remarkably like a 16th-century Rajput stronghold, and the benevolent maharana is still treated like a reigning king by his devoted and loyal subjects. You can witness this firsthand by attending the temple at nearby Eklingji on a Monday evening, when the maharana -- the 76th ruler of one of the world's oldest surviving dynasties -- joins his subjects to pay his respects to Shiva.
Try to spend at least 3 to 4 days in Udaipur, whether you spend them aimlessly wandering through its mazelike lanes, taking a slow cruise on Pichola Lake, exploring the giant medieval fortress and palaces that rise from its shores, or setting off to see the intricately carved Jain temples of Ranakpur and the ancient fort of Kumbhalgarh -- or whether you do nothing but loll around on a comfortable divan overlooking the lake. You'll find the City of Sunrise the most relaxing part of your sojourn in Rajasthan.
