Tamil-Nadu Travel Guide
If your idea of India is one of ancient temples thick with incense and chanting masses worshipping dimly lit deities covered with vermilion paste and crushed marigolds, then Tamil Nadu is where your mental images will be replaced by vivid memories. Occupying a long stretch of Indian Ocean coastline known as the Coromandel, India's southernmost state is dominated by religion in nearly every aspect of life. For many, this is the Hindu heartland -- home to one of India's oldest civilizations, the Dravidians, who pretty much escaped the Mughal influence that permeated so much of the cultural development in the north. Ruled predominantly by the powerful Chola, Pallava, and Pandyan dynasties, Dravidian culture flourished for more than a thousand years, developing a unique political and social hierarchy, still evident in the strong caste differences prevalent here, the strictly vegetarian fare, and a fervent nationalist sensibility.
Thanks to heavy summer downpours, Tamil Nadu is green and lush -- particularly in the Cauvery Delta toward the west, where the great Dravidian kingdoms were established and some of the finest temples built, like the 11th-century Brihadeshwara Temple, situated in Thanjavur, the Chola capital for 400 years. By contrast, Chennai (formerly Madras), the capital established by the British in the 17th century, is a thoroughly unpleasant metropolis. It's primarily of interest as a gateway to some of the region's best attractions, like nearby Kanchipuram, one of the seven sacred cities of India, and the Sri Venkateshvara Temple (just over the border in Andhra Pradesh), said to be the wealthiest temple in the world. There, devotees line up for hours -- even days -- to hand over an annual 1.5 billion rupees to help Vishnu settle his debt with the God of Wealth. Just 2 hours south of Chennai lies the seaside village of Mamallapuram, where the Pallavas built the earliest examples of monumental architecture in southern India during the 5th and 9th centuries right near the water's edge. From here it's a relaxing 2 1/2-hour drive further south to charming Pondicherry, Tamil's former French coastal colony. Although the French officially left years ago, Pondicherry's Gallic spirit is still very much alive -- traditional Indian snack joints feature signs proclaiming MEALS READY; BIEN VENUE, locals clad in lungis (traditional Indian clothing) converse in French, and gorgeous antiques-filled Indo-French colonial mansions have been restored as hotels -- the kind of "temple" that will appeal to the lazy hedonist in you. Having caught your breath in the wide boulevards of Pondicherry, you can either travel to Tiruchirappalli, exploring the holy temple town of Srirangam and nearby Thanjavur, or head to the Sri Meenakshi-Sundareshwar Temple at Madurai. A place of intense spiritual activity, this temple is where 15,000 pilgrims gather daily to celebrate the divine union of the goddess Meenakshi (Parvati) and her eternal lover, Sundareshwar (Shiva) -- it's one of the most evocative experiences in all of India.
Rule of the Screen Gods--It's not just temple gods who are worshipped here -- much as in California, screen gods are adored by the local population, enough to elect them to the highest political office. The majority of Tami Nadu's leaders have started off on the big screen. Across the state, you'll see massive billboards featuring the swollen face of Jayalalitha, a controversial actress-turned-politician who is currently Tamil Nadu's incorrigible chief minister. Kicked out of office on corruption charges in 2001, she jumped back in to reclaim her position, tossing her successor in jail. Once again declaring herself the voice of the people, she immediately set to work initiating a piece of state legislation to prevent the conversion of Hindus to other religions -- a bill that no doubt earned her great favor with the powerful Brahmins who control the temples that so deeply influence the lives of the ordinary people.
