Swellendam Travel Guide
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Swellendam: 220km (136 miles) E of Cape Town
Most people who choose to drive through the Overberg interior (as opposed to the Whale Coast) are on their way to the Garden Route, and may rush through without realizing that there are a few excellent pit stops along the way. As you head east from Cape Town on the N2, here are some suggestions on what to stop and see as you travel to Swellendam.
After ascending Sir Lowry's Pass, you'll reach the fruit-growing areas of Grabouw and Elgin (the area produces 65 percent of South Africa's apple export crop) and the first of many farm stalls dotted along the way. Peregrine (opposite the Grabouw turnoff) is one of the oldest, and arguably the best -- stop here for fresh farm produce and various traditional "road trip" treats. This is one of the best places in the Cape to sample biltong (air-dried meat strips) and droë wors (air-dried sausage). The adjacent bakery is also excellent -- the pies (try the springbok), melktert (custard tart), and koeksisters (deep-fried dough soaked in syrup) are out of this world.
The first detour you might consider is the R406, which loops past the villages of Genadendal and Greyton. Genadendal is the oldest Moravian mission village in Africa, with buildings dating back to 1738. The Genadendal Mission and Museum Complex documents the activities of the missionaries and their flock. For guided tours, call tel. 028/251-8582 (open Mon-Thurs 8.30am-1pm and 2-5pm, Fri 8.30am-1pm and 2-3:30pm, Sat 9am-12pm).
Greyton, a few minutes farther east on the R406, was developed much later, and by a more affluent community. Set at the foot of the Riviersonderend Mountains, with many beautifully restored Victorian and Georgian buildings, it's a great deal more attractive than Genadendal, and a good place to stop for lunch -- grab a table on the stoep (veranda) at the Oak & Vigne (tel. 028/254-9037; open daily, closed for dinner). If you feel like spending the night, your best bet is Greyton Lodge (tel. 028/254-9876; R175-R275/$21-$34 per person, depending on season), a cozy country inn that has a good reputation for its dining. Other than strolling the streets the main attraction here is the 14km (8 1/2-mile) Boesmanskloof Trail, which traverses the mountains to the town of McGregor. A good alternative is the 9km (5 1/2-mile) walk to Oak Falls -- the highlight of the route -- instead. For information, call tel. 028/254-9620.
Swellendam, a pretty town situated at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains and appropriately billed as "the historic heart of the Overberg," is the perfect halfway stop (for lunch or the night) for visitors driving from Cape Town to the Garden Route directly via the N2.
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