Myanmar Travel Guide
In preparing this guide, we were confronted with problematic political realities in Myanmar -- realities that made us question the advisability of sending readers there. The political unfairness of the government of Myanmar has influenced the international community to post sanctions against the country. This section introduces you to Myanmar; provides some background on history, culture, and the political situation; and suggests resources and tour operators that the intrepid traveler can contact for aid in planning a trip to this dazzling yet troubled land.
Now that the whole world is mapped and our very definition of a "frontier" involves rocket fuel or swims in a scientist's petri dish, there are few places where you can make proverbial first tracks in a pair of hiking boots. Many previously unspoiled destinations disappoint travelers who show up to find Coca-Cola billboards being erected near picturesque beaches, or local people trading colorful traditional attire for American Levi's. Quaint towns, especially in Asia, are rapidly being replaced by steel-and-glass cityscapes, and nothing is more disheartening to a seeker than to get into the back of beyond only to greet a busload of gawking tourists.
Not so in Myanmar (formerly Burma), which seduces travelers with the promise of adventure and beauty unspoiled by the trampling hordes of Western feet. Yangon (Rangoon), the nation's capital, still resembles a postcard from the 1950s. Ancient and serene temples rise from the morning mist, uncluttered by souvenir tents and idling tour buses. Local people still stop and gaze curiously at strangers passing through. Adventure lurks in the forests and hills.
Like neighboring countries in Indochina, Myanmar constantly reminds you of its ancient Buddhist heritage. The temples are obvious, but it's the little things that stand out: small, merit-making kindnesses; folks in three-piece suits practicing impromptu ablutions when crossing paths with a mendicant monk; worshippers at small roadside altars; and such idiosyncrasies as the Burmese always handing things to one another, especially money, with two hands (stemming from temple procedure). There's much to learn and see here, and its customs, such as the practice of men wearing longyis (cloth wrappings), are long gone in neighboring countries in the region. Burma is a snapshot of the past.
Unfortunately, preservation of this pristine portrait has cost the Burmese people dearly. Since 1962, Myanmar has been under the strangling grip of a military junta whose "Burmese Way of Socialism" closed the country to the outside world and grounded its economy to near collapse. The Burmese people struggle to survive amid poverty and political oppression.
So what's an interested traveler to do? On one side, the State Peace and Development Council (SPDC) (formerly the State Law and Order Restoration Council or SLORC), the ruling elite, opens its arms to foreign visitors, luring them with smiles and welcoming them to spend foreign money -- money it hopes will help mask the problems of a nation that it has so sadly neglected. On the other side, nongovernment organizations that support Myanmar's prodemocracy movement are raising the call to world travelers, urging them to avoid travel to Myanmar and thus prevent the SPDC from obtaining the hard currency and global legitimacy it needs to survive.
Burmese people are friendly, even if worried about repercussions for interacting with foreign visitors. You'll at least be greeted with smiles here; even young soldiers wave from passing trucks and women working in the blazing sun will wipe their brows, wave, and smile, the moon-shape splotches of Tanaka, a natural sunscreen, like great clownish dimples on their cheeks.
Almost all visitors arrive in Yangon and visit the city's amazing temples such as the Shwedagon. Typical itineraries include a connection with Mandalay, a simple flight, and side trips to Bagan, an ancient temple city, or Inle Lake, a picturesque natural wonder. Many return to Yanogon from Mandalay by a luxury (or budget) trip on the wide, slow Irrawaddy.
If you yearn for an adventurous travel experience, Myanmar can satisfy your expectations. With the proper preparations, you can enjoy this hidden corner of the world with relative security, and with current and accurate information, you can minimize your contributions to the damages caused by the current regime. Please travel wisely.
