Murano Travel Guide
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If you take a boat from the Grand Canal near San Marco to Murano, Burano, and Torcello, it can take hours. But in about 20 minutes or so, you can head north from Piazza San Marco, coming to the Campo di Santa Maria Formosa and continuing north until you reach the vaporetto stop at Fondamente Nuove. Here you can catch the vaporetto to Murano or the other islands and cut down traveling time considerably. You can spend more time seeing the sights instead of taking a long boat trip with seemingly endless stops.
For centuries, glass blowers on the island of Murano have turned out those fantastic chandeliers that Victorian ladies used to prize so highly. They also produce heavily ornamented glasses so ruby red or so indigo blue that you can't tell whether you're drinking blackberry juice or pure-grain alcohol. Happily, the glass blowers are still plying their trade, although increasing competition (notably from Sweden) has compelled a greater degree of sophistication in design.
Murano remains the chief expedition from Venice, but it's not the most beautiful nearby island. (Burano and Torcello are far more attractive.)
You can combine a tour of Murano with a trip along the lagoon. To reach Murano, take vaporetto no. 42 at Riva degli Schiavoni, a short walk from Piazzetta San Marco. The boat docks at the landing platform at Murano where the first furnace awaits conveniently. It's best to go Monday to Friday 10am to noon if you want to see some glass blowing action.
Touring the Glass Factories & Other Sights
As you stroll through Murano, you'll find that the factory owners are only too glad to let you come in and see their age-old crafts. While browsing the showrooms, you'll need stiff resistance to keep the salespeople at bay. Bargaining is expected. Don't -- repeat don't -- pay the marked price on any item. That's merely the figure at which to open negotiations.
However, the prices of made-on-the-spot souvenirs aren't negotiable. For example, you might want to buy a horse streaked with blue. The artisan takes a piece of incandescent glass, huffs, puffs, rolls it, shapes it, snips it, and behold -- he has shaped a horse. The showrooms of Murano also contain a fine assortment of Venetian crystal beads, available in every hue. You might find some of the best work to be the experiments of apprentices.
While on the island, you can visit the Renaissance palazzo housing the Museo Vetrario di Murano, Fondamenta Giustinian 8 (tel. 041-739586), which contains a spectacular collection of Venetian glass. From April to October, it's open Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm (to 4pm Nov-Mar). Admission is 4€ ($4.60). It is closed December 25, January 1 and May 1.
If you're looking for something different, head to San Pietro Martire, Fondamente Vetrai (tel. 041-739704), which dates from the 1300s but was rebuilt in 1511 and is richly decorated with paintings by Tintoretto and Veronese. Its proud possession is a Madonna and Child Enthroned, by Giovanni Bellini, plus two superb altarpieces by the same master. The church lies right before the junction with Murano's Grand Canal, about 229m (750 ft.) from the vaporetto landing stage. It's open daily 9am to noon and 3 to 6pm; it's closed for Mass on Sunday morning.
Even more notable is Santa Maria e Donato, Campo San Donato (tel. 041-739056), open daily 8am to noon and 4 to 7pm, with time variations for Sunday Mass. Dating from the 7th century but reconstructed in the 1100s, this building is a stellar example of Venetian Byzantine style, despite its 19th-century restoration. The interior is known for its mosaic floor (a parade of peacocks and eagles, as well as other creatures) and a 15th-century ship's keel ceiling. Over the apse is an outstanding mosaic of the Virgin against a gold background from the early 1200s.
A Special Glass Museum
For a really special museum, call for an appointment to visit the Barovier & Toso Museum, Palazzo Contarini, Fondamenta Vetrai 28, Murano (tel. 041-739049). Here Angelo Barovier displays rare glass from his private collection acquired over half a century. Free guided visits are Monday through Friday at 10am, 11am, 3pm, and 4pm.
