Mendoza Travel Guide
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710km (440 miles) NW of Buenos Aires; 721km (447 miles) SW of Córdoba
Mendoza is an artificial oasis. It receives no more than 5 days of rain per year; the tree-lined boulevards, plazas with trickling fountains, and enormous city park exist thanks to a centuries' old roadside canal system. Ask a local what she likes best about Mendoza, and she is likely to tell you "La tranquilidad," the tranquillity of what must be Argentina's loveliest city. You'll want to linger about these streets and parks before rushing to the countryside, where a seductive journey along Los Caminos de Vino awaits.
"And so you are traveling to the land of sol y vino," my taxi driver says with a smile, capturing the two great temptations of a region showered with sun and flowing with wine. Boasting nearly 300 annual days of sun and three-fourths of the nation's wine production, Mendoza seems destined for the distinction of Napa South. Few might imagine, however, that the sweet, voluptuous grapes coloring the province grow on inhospitable desert land brought to life only through a vast network of irrigation canals dating back to the Incas. The canals extend not just through the diverse vineyards but also into the streets of Mendoza itself. This picturesque city lies at the heart of the Cuyo, the name of the region that comprises the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, and San Luis. It was founded in 1561 by Spanish colonialists, and retains an idyllic serenity that has carried over from centuries past.
Los Caminos del Vino refers to the seven wine roads that wind their way through the most important wine producing zones of Mendoza. You should spend at least 1 or 2 days exploring Mendoza -- discovering the old city, visiting the plazas, and wandering about Parque General San Martín -- before heading for the wine route. Choose your own pace when touring the bodegas (wineries); two or three visits are possible in half a day. Keep in mind that the bodegas, which offer free tours with tastings, are open only on weekdays. But a journey into the magnificent mountains is possible anytime, and the best circuit is Alta Montaña, which follows parts of the old Inca trail and Andes railroad to the border with Chile. Travelers are best off choosing Mendoza as their base for exploring the region, although small lodgings and fincas (private homes opened to guests) dot the province.
Mendoza offers a wealth of outdoor activities, ranging from Class III, IV, and V white-water rafting in the Mendoza River to horseback riding, mountain biking, and trekking in the Andes. Tour operators in Mendoza will arrange an itinerary according to your choice, from part-day outings to multiple-day excursions. Las Leñas is a world-class ski resort in the south of the province -- playground of Porteños escaping the capital for a snowy retreat -- while Los Penitentes offers decent runs closer to Mendoza. For the bold and the brave, Aconcagua Mountain provides an irresistible challenge, its 6,960m (22,829 ft.) towering above all other peaks in the Western Hemisphere. With a good bit of endurance, money, and time on your hands, the mountain can be conquered.
