Laos Travel Guide
When you leave, don't worry that you find it difficult to summarize your experiences in "The Jewel of Southeast Asia"; many travelers come away from Laos with only a vague sense that they'd like to return and do so quickly before that special "something" is gone. Fear not, though, for change comes slowly here, and the genuine smiles of Laos' kind people endure.
So, what is Laos about? Sixty percent of Lao people are practicing Buddhists, and that fact colors every facet of life and is the overriding impression you'll carry away. Temples and stupas seem to dominate the architecture of even the most rural village, and flocks of monks in colorful robes on the streets are hard to miss. Try to catch the daily pintabot, or begging rounds, of monks, especially in Luang Prabang. Following centuries-old tradition, the Sangha, or monastic community, provides a moral fabric and plays a major role in society and education. Monks are highly respected in the social hierarchy, and Buddhist notions of personal morality and compassion still prevail, though generations change and modernize. The Buddhist philosophy of acceptance and compassion plays in everyday Lao life; arguments are the exception (and arguing by foreign visitors only achieves the opposite of desired aims). Even the shortest visit to Laos offers unique insight into Buddhist culture.
A developing country, one of the poorest in the world, Laos has been a long-time favorite for hearty backpackers willing to brave rough roads and basic accommodations for a bit of adventure. Laos defines the adage that it's all about the journey, and not the destination, and there's something special about the traveler camaraderie and connection to locals on an all-day bumpy bus ride or meandering boat journey. Pastoral villages and dusty, one-horse towns are the sparse destinations outside of the two major cities, and there are exciting options for getting off-the-track in pristine jungle and among the ethnic minorities of the north. Only in the capital of Vientiane and in Luang Prabang will you find quality accommodation. The infrastructure is still in its infancy, and rural travel begs caution, but many travelers find Laos a great place to arm themselves with a bit of insider information and jump off the track, to forgo comfort for a night in a minority village or rural town.
From citified Vientiane to the placid, tropical south and jungle north, Laos has a diverse geography and population. The north is a unique tapestry of ethnic minorities, and Lao people themselves have unique cultural and ethnic enclaves that differ from north to south, hill to plain. The country boasts vast tracts of deep jungle, open farmland, and even tropical river islands in the south. Remnants of ancient civilizations are here as well, including the odd Plain of Jars and Wat Phu, a Hindu site that might predate Angkor Wat. With current development in tourism and industry, many fear for the natural and cultural resources of this peaceful land-locked land. If Laos follows neighboring Thailand's model, as it does in many areas, Laos might further exploit its forests and waterways and, by packaging tourism for mass consumption, turn ethnic villages into human zoos. Working with United Nations agencies, the Laos government is taking steps to see that rural development proceeds slowly in order to protect these vital resources, but cultural change is coming in urban areas and modes of dress are changing as fast as attitudes. The sum of this is the loss of a unique and gentle way of life; one woman explained it to me, saying, "When the girls trade the traditional skirt for the miniskirt, then it's all over." So Laos is a place to tread lightly, but foreign travelers are made quite welcome and encouraged to do their part to preserve and participate in cultural practices. Laos' unique Buddhist heritage and gentle traditions are as open to us as we are to receiving them.
In Laos, travelers can enjoy some of Southeast Asia's most untamed natural beauty, kayak or trek in the back of beyond, experience ancient architectural wonders, enjoy the kindness and lightheartedness of Laos's unique hospitality, and experience Buddhist ritual and culture in a way that might add tranquility to your travels. It's an enchanting land that demands that you slow your pace to match its own. The beauty of Laos exists not only along the Mekong at sunset, but in smiles at the market or impromptu Laotian lessons on the street corner, things that are easily missed if you're in a hurry.
Travel Advisory--Travelers to Laos should refer to the U.S. State Department Travel Advisory regarding the present situation in the area (go to www.travel.state.gov and click "Travel Warnings"). Laos is not a dangerous destination, by any means, but it's important to remember that the current climate of calm and openness to visitors is quite short historically. Visitors should just keep in mind some late events and keep an ear to the ground when in-country.
In the winter and spring of 2003 there have been a number of attacks on buses traveling on Rte. 13, the major north-south highway, just north of Vang Vieng. As a result, visitors are advised to avoid the journey between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang and stay abreast of the situation through the CDC or press. The attacks are attributed to Hmong rebels who have been fighting the Lao government for a number of years. Neither news nor government sources support the notion of anything like large-scale insurgency, but the group has been active, targeting tourist destinations in Vientiane in 2000 and forcing periodic road closures.
Travelers in the countryside should also remember that bus and boat breakdowns are frequent, and road conditions and poor infrastructure make rural travel unpredictable. Hospital facilities, even in the capital, are rudimentary, at best, and any serious medical condition requires evacuation. UXO, unexploded ordnance left from years of conflict, is still a major concern, especially in Xieng Khouang near the Plain of Jars.
It should also be mentioned that Lao Aviation has yet to pass any international standards for safety.
