Harpswell Travel Guide
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Southwest from Brunswick and Bath is the picturesque Harpswell Peninsula. It's actually three peninsulas, like the tines of a pitchfork -- at least if you include the Orrs and Bailey islands, linked to the mainland by bridges. While close to some of Maine's larger towns (Portland is 45 min. away), the peninsulas have a remote, historic feel with sudden vistas across meadows to the blue waters of northern Casco Bay. Toward their southern tips, the character changes as clusters of colorful Victorian-era summer cottages displace farmhouses found farther inland. Some cottages rent by the week, but savvy families book many of them years in advance. Ask local real-estate agents if you're interested.
With no set itinerary for exploring the area, drive south on Route 123 until you can go no farther, backtrack for a bit, and strike south again on the next peninsula. Among "attractions" worth looking for are wonderful ocean and island views from South Harpswell at the tip of the westernmost peninsula (park and wander around for a bit), and the clever Cobwork Bridge connecting Bailey and Orrs islands. The humpbacked bridge was built in 1928 of granite blocks stacked in such a way that the strong tides could come and go and not drag the bridge out with it. No cement was used in its construction.
This area is good for a bowl of chowder or a boiled lobster. Maine's premier spot for chowder is the down-home Dolphin Chowder House (tel. 207/833-6000) at Basin Point in South Harpswell. (Drive 12 miles south of Brunswick on Rte. 123, turn right at Ash Point Rd. near the West Harpswell School, then take the next right on Basin Point Rd. and continue to the end.) Find the boatyard, then wander inside the adjacent building, where you'll discover a counter seating six and a handful of pine tables and booths with stunning views of Casco Bay. The fish chowder and lobster stew are reasonably priced ($4.95-$12) and absolutely delicious, and the blueberry muffins are warm with a crispy crown. The servers can seem flummoxed at times, so bring your patience.
