Durban Travel Guide
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1,753km (1,087 miles) NE of Cape Town, 588km (365 miles) SE of Johannesburg
The Union Jack was first planted in Durban's fertile soil in 1824, a year after George Farewell fortuitously happened upon its harbor. It was only after the fledgling settlement was formally annexed in 1844, however, that the dense coastal vegetation was gradually consumed by buildings with broad verandas, and civilized with English traditions such as morning papers, afternoon tea, and weekend horse racing.
Sugar was this region's "white gold," with large fortunes made by the so-called sugar barons. The most famous of these was Sir Marshall Campbell; today his home, housing the Campbell Collection, is one of Durban's star attractions, and one can still travel along the beachfront in the two-wheeled "rickshaws" he introduced to the city in 1893. The world's voracious appetite for sugar was also responsible for the strong Indian influence on Durban's architecture, cuisine, and customs -- during the 19th century, thousands of indentured laborers were shipped in from India to work the sugar plantations, and today Durban houses the largest Indian population outside of India.
South Africa's third-largest city, Durban attracts the lion's share of South Africa's domestic tourists, and offers a completely unique atmosphere. It's certainly worth scheduling 2 or 3 days here before heading west to the Drakensberg or north for the game parks and marine reserves of Zululand. To experience the essence of South Africa's most multicultural city, a walking tour of the Indian District, where Indian shops and markets are interspersed with Zulu hawkers touting traditional wares, is recommended -- though be aware that it's a rather seedy part of town. The Kwa Muhle Museum provides an excellent insight into the iniquitous system of apartheid. Anyone who is interested in the region's arts and crafts should make it a priority to visit the Durban Art Museum and NSA, with a possible side trip to a nearby cultural village, such as Phezulu, located in the Valley of a Thousand Hills.
