Cochin-Kochi Travel Guide
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1,080km (670 miles) S of Mumbai
Cochin is not the capital of Kerala, but it is its most charming city, blessed with its own international airport and a relatively good infrastructure, making it the ideal gateway to the state. This has been the case since 1341, the year nature carved out Cochin's harbor with a massive flood. As a result, Cochin became the first port of call for Arabs, Chinese and, finally, European sea merchants, who sailed for barter into what came to be known as the "Queen of the Arabian Sea."
Lured by the promise of pepper, the Portuguese under Vasco da Gama arrived in 1500, and the Franciscan friars who accompanied the explorer Pedro Alvarez Cabral established a church and set about converting the locals. By 1553, the Maharajah of Cochin had granted permission for the construction of the first European fort in India, and what had been an obscure fishing hamlet became India's first European settlement. In 1663, Cochin fell to the Dutch, and then to the British in 1795. Each of these foreign influences left their mark, resulting in a distinctly Indo-European culture, most evident in the architecture.
Today, Cochin (or Kochi, as it has been renamed) comprises three distinct areas. Down at heel, but wonderfully atmospheric, the historic districts of Mattancherry and Fort Cochin lie on one of two peninsular arms that shield the Kochi harbor -- this is where you should try to find accommodations and spend most of your time. Opposite it, on the mainland that creates the eastern peninsula, lies modern Ernakulam, and in between, the islands, well connected to the mainland by bridges.
Fort Cochin, the oldest European settlement in India, retains an old-world charm; its battlements no longer stand, but the combination of Portuguese, Dutch, British, and local influences is evident in the tiled, steep-roofed bungalows that line its quaint streets. Fort Cochin's oldest section, still referred to as Jew Town, is home to the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. Plan to spend at least 2 nights in Cochin, enjoying its charming atmosphere and low-key sights at a lazy, relaxed pace. Take in a Kathakali performance, enjoy a romantic sunset cruise around the harbor and, if you're at all interested in antiques bargains, get ready to wade through stores packed with unexpected curiosities.
