Cambodia Travel Guide
It wasn't long ago that travel guides about Cambodia weren't much more than protractive warnings and lists of safety precautions, and for good reason: Following years of war, the chaos and genocide of Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge, and a long period of civil and political instability, Cambodia was until recently an armed camp and was closed to foreign visitors (or open only to travelers of the danger-seeking variety). But Cambodia is healing, and, though this is a process that will take years, the country is enjoying a period of peace and prosperity under a stable coalition government. Cambodia offers travelers a host of experiences, from the legacy of ancient architecture to a growing urban capital and beautiful countryside. Even the shortest visit is a window into a vibrant ancient culture and a chance to meet with a very kind and resilient people.
What brings so many to this Buddhist land of smiles is Angkor Wat, the ancient capital and one of the man-made wonders of the world. The temple complex at Angkor is stunning, a pilgrimage point for temple aficionados and a place of spiritual significance to many. Most travelers limit their visit to a few days at the temples and the major sites in the growing capital, Phnom Penh, but travel in rural Cambodia, once unheard of, is now limited only by your tolerance for bumpy roads and rustic accommodation. Bouncing around the hinterlands of Cambodia still begs caution, though, and travelers should be aware of the mass amounts of UXO (unexploded mines), poor road conditions, and the absence of proper medical services. But dusty roads pay off when they connect hamlets rarely visited by outsiders or lead to unexplored rural ruins. Any of the larger tour operators are a good bet for arranging trips to the likes of mountainous Rattanakiri, in the northeast, the Thai border area, or rural riverside towns along the Mekong. The country's only port, Sihanoukville, is a little beach destination that's growing in popularity. Intrepid travelers commonly rentmotorcycles or brave rattletrap buses.
Known for warm, beguiling smiles, smiles that have weathered great hardship, Khmer people are very friendly, approachable, and helpful; but be warned that the hard sell is on in Cambodia, and you're sure to be harried, especially by the persistent young sellers at Angkor Wat. Nevertheless, travelers here are sure to meet with great kindness.
For years, the lawlessness of Cambodia attracted some rather dubious foreign visitors who came in droves for budget drugs and prostitutions. Phnom Penh's expatriate community was notorious during years of instability, even the UN troops that arrived in 1992 were as much a part of the problem in their support of local vice as they were in maintaining order and ensuring fair elections. "Sexpats" and drug tourists are on the wane in Cambodia, but, sadly, there still is a contingent of folks who come to take advantage of Cambodia's seedier stock-in-trade. Only recently, Britain's Gary Glitter was given a persona non grata order by the Khmer government for his abhorrent behavior, and many others are being profiled and given one-way tickets out.
Tourism is growing in leaps and bounds, though, and there are many non-government organizations (NGO's) here to do their part to rebuild and support the growing nation. Their activities, centered in offices in Phnom Penh, are what keep social services and the infrastructure at subsistence levels. Volunteer opportunities abound, and the obligatory United Nations white Land Rovers seem to be the car of choice in most towns. The sum of these recent booms in tourism and the large expat community means finer services for visitors, and the hotels and restaurants in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh are on par with any in the region, although outside of these two centers it's sparse.
If only to see Angkor Wat, the trip is worth it. It is a beguiling land that is shaking off the shackles of a devastating recent history and is an exciting tourist destination.
