Big-Sur Travel Guide
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3 miles S of Carmel-by-the-Sea; 123 miles S of San Francisco; 87 miles N of Hearst Castle
Big Sur is more than a drive along one of the most dramatic coastlines on earth or a peaceful repose amid a forest of California redwoods. It's a stretch of wilderness so overwhelmingly beautiful -- especially when the fog glows in the moonlight -- that it enchants everyone who visits. It's also home to a particular breed of nature lover who prefers a rustic lifestyle to the rest of California's offerings. When the 1997 and 1998 El Niño storms caused landslides and major road damage, cutting the area off from civilization for months, reports from Big Sur were unusual: Some residents fled, vowing never to return. The remaining residents rejoiced in the temporary solitude; Post Ranch, the area's ultimate luxury resort, shared the impromptu intimacy with deep-pocketed guests by flying them in via helicopter (for an extra fee, of course). Such is the price paid for living amid the California wilderness. The reopened roads are packed again, and driving through the region is slow; rubberneckers admiring the view and nervous Nellies fearing the cliffs drive with their foot on the brakes.
Although there is an actual Big Sur Village 25 miles south of Carmel, "Big Sur" refers to the entire 90-mile stretch of coastline between Carmel and San Simeon, blessed on one side by the majestic Santa Lucia Range and on the other by the rocky Pacific coastline. It's one of the most romantic and relaxing places in California, and if you need respite from the rat race, I can recommend no better place to find it (although Yosemite, if you hike past the crowds, is equally rejuvenating). There's little more to do than explore the mountains and beaches, or just perch yourself atop the cliffs and take in the California sea air -- but spend a few days here and you'll find that you need nothing else.
