Alsace Travel Guide
The provinces of Alsace and Lorraine, with ancient capitals at Strasbourg and Nancy, have been the object of many disputes between Germany and France. Alsace has been called "the least French of French provinces," more reminiscent of the Black Forest across the Rhine. In fact, it became German from 1870 until after World War I and was ruled by Hitler from 1940 to 1944. These days, both provinces are back under French control, though they remain somewhat independent.
In the Vosges Mountains you can follow La Route des Crêtes (Crest Road) or skirt the foothills, visiting the wine towns of Alsace. In its cities and cathedrals, the castle-dotted landscape evokes a past filled with military glory or defeat. Lorraine is Joan of Arc country, and many of its towns still suggest their heritage from the Middle Ages.
No clear-cut line delineates Alsace from Lorraine. Alsace is more German. Lorraine, with its rolling landscape, appears more French in character.
Regional Cuisine -- The ample use of pork and goose fat in Alsatian dishes gives the cuisine a distinctive flavor. Alsace is a leader in the production of pâtés, with more than 40 varieties; visit a local charcuterie (delicatessen) for samples.
In Lorraine, in addition to butter and cream, local chefs use large quantities of salted lard. Even in local pot-au-feu (known as une potes), lard and pork sausages replace beef.
Other specialties are choucroute (sauerkraut) with sausages, salted ham, pork chops, or (in deluxe versions) truffles; chicken with Riesling; trout in cream with Riesling, or fried (au bleu); Alsatian kouglof (made with almonds, raisins, sugar, milk, flour, and eggs); and a tart made with flour, milk, and sugar called un ramequin.
The famous Alsatian beer is Kronenbourg. There are over 90 varieties of Alsatian wines, sometimes drunk from blue or green glass flutes. The most celebrated include Riesling, Gewürztraminer (traminer), and pinot blanc.
