There are two Class II routes and one Class III routes to the top. Class II basically means a walk-up with little direct exposure to extreme falls, but some hand over hand climbing which exposes the person to injurious falls. The Class II's up Matterhorn are not easy and are located on narrow knife edge ridges with some real hairy drop-offs. The hike up Horse Creek is very demanding with very, very steep climbs up loose talus and through very thick, brush. These conditions exists even though the map shows an unmaintained trail up the canyon. There is a steep snowfield at the head of the canyon near the divide between Horse and Spiller Canyons. Above all it should be emphasized that this is not an easy climb physically and it traverses some pretty steep, exposed terrain. It is really a climb for experienced backcountry travelers.
Permits: A permit is required to make the climb if it involves an overnight trip. The majority of people will not be able to make the climb in one day. Those that have made it in a day say it is not worth it. Reservations may only be obtained by mail or in person (NOT by telephone) between March 1 and three weeks before you begin your trip. The trailhead which is used for the climb is the Horse Creek Trailhead. Special Restrictions: The Sawtooth Ridge zone is restricted to groups of 8 or less persons. There are no campfires allowed. If parties of 8 people wish to split up into separate groups then each group must leave on different dates and their itinerary cannot coincide (the groups cannot meet).
Directions: From Bridgeport, Follow the Twin Lakes Road until it ends at the Mono Village Resort. Parking is available at the far end of the resort area at no charge for day use, with a $5 fee for overnight parking.
Elevation: 7,092 feet
Ending Elevation: 12,264 feet
Elevation Gain: 5,172 feet
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Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, Nevada
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