char grilled oysters at Drago's

For my money, Oleana's a sure bet for a memorable meal, a beautiful, historic French Quarter setting and an excellent Sazerac--all without the tourist trappings. For Oysters, try Acme. For a downhome time, a swampy-but-cozy atmosphere and some of the best alligator cheesecake and fried chicken you'll ever eat, don't miss Jacques Imos. For beignets and coffee, you shouldn't miss Cafe du Monde.

To avoid stepping into some controversial territory here, given this is N.O. and everyone has their favorites, I contacted a good friend who's a born-and-bred local. For good but touristy eateries, he recommends Arnaud's, Commander's Palace, Brennan's, Mr. B's, and the Rib Room, which, he says, "are all expensive but amazing." A bit further afield, drive out on Hwy. 90 to Mosca's, a roadhouse "time capsule" serving up Italian food with a Creole flair. Other choices include the po-boys at Leonardi's Crabby Jack's , as well as those served at Mother's. And for late night diner food, try Camilia Grill at S. Carrolton and St. Charles.

Arnaud's is hard to beat, but Commander's Palace is right there with it.